I have built and flown many different Tiny-Whoop-style micro quad‘s, so far the BeeBrain V2 Tiny Whoop is by far the best experience I have had. Check out this build log and review to find out more.
Many thanks to Newbeedrone (NBD) for sending me the kit for the review. Check out our post about the best Tiny Whoops in the market.
What’s special about the BeeBrain V2 Tiny Whoop?
- It’s super easy to build, everything is plug-and-play, no soldering required
- The FC came pre-configured, no need to fiddle with settings, great for beginners
- Flight performance is excellent, very powerful and fast for a brushed micro quad running 6mm motors; Extremely stable and agile
- The most exciting feature IMO is the Betaflight OSD! You can see the battery voltage and many other flight info, you can even change settings e.g. PID and rates inside the OSD. You don’t normally get this feature on micro quads of this size
- It has VTX Control as well so you can change VTX settings in the OSD!
- BeeBrain V2 Micro FPV Flight Controller Set – Product Page
- BDR Acro 3 Pack – Product Page
- Cockroach Super-Durable Frame – Product Page
- KINGKONG 31mm Props – Product Page
- Nitro Nectar 250mAh HV LiPo Battery – Product Page
This is indeed an expensive micro quadcopter, but the quality of the components is top notch and it requires the least amount of DIY compared to some other cheaper Tiny Whoop alternatives.
FC + FPV Setup
The FPV setup consists of a “BeeTX” VTX and “BeeEye” FPV camera. They are designed to be stacked on top of the BeeBrain V2 flight controller.
The FC, VTX and camera can be bought as a bundle. You can also buy them separately if you wish. It’s very thoughtful of NBD as they provide one extra screws and rubber grommets.
The FPV Camera
The FPV camera is a 600TVL CMOS with 120° FOV, and it’s protected inside a plastic housing with 20 degree up-tilt.
The BeeTX is a 40-channel 25mW video transmitter. You can select band, channel, and output power between 1mW and 25mW in the Betaflight OSD.
I am not sure what the 1mW power is for, it probably acts like PitMode? Or maybe it’s for allowing more racers to fly together in a small indoor race without interference. I just use 25mW and I have clean video flying in the house and playground.
The VTX has built-in Betaflight OSD, notice the MAX Chip on the right. And it sits snugly on top of the FC and they are connected by two 6-pin connectors.
The only downside is the lack of physical push button to change channel, you can only do so in the OSD. But actually this could be a good thing, I don’t remember how many times the VTX channel is changed accidentally on the other Tiny Whoop I have when it hits a wall.
The Flight Controller
The BeeBrain V2 FC is an F3 board with 3A FET’s integrated (A FET is basically an ESC for brushed motors). It has built-in radio receivers for Frsky or Spketrum users.
One cool thing about the BeeBrain V2 FC is the two RX antennas: there is a piece of wire soldered to the board, that’s the default and primary RX antenna for maximum range. But in case it’s damaged, you still have a back-up antenna in the form of a copper trace built-in to the PCB. You can select which antenna to use by bridging the antenna solder pads (see manual).
The BeeBrain V2 is really designed to be used with their own VTX, but you can use this FC with other FPV setups if you wish.
The battery connector is a 2-pin JST PH (2mm), which is the same connector used on the Eachine E010.
The motors I received are the BDR “sampler” 0615 brushed motors.
There are 3 different speeds indicated by the colour of the motors. The faster the motors, the less flight time and the harder it is to control.
I will be using the “Gold Edition” 19700KV – the fastest motor of the three, because I am a speed addict :)
According to NBD these motors should have 4 to 5 hours life time before you have to replace them. That’s about 100 flights. Brushed motors don’t just die suddenly, but the performance will degrade over time where you get less flight time and punch.
Be aware that brushed motors are designed to spin at a particular direction, spinning the motor at the wrong direction can result in shortened motor lifespan.
- Red/Blue wires – spins CW (top left, bottom right motors)
- Black/White wires – spins Counter Clockwise (top right, bottom left motors)
I have the Nitro Nectar HV version (LiHV) which allows the battery to be charged up to 4.35V per cell. I should have gotten the normal LiPo battery because my charger doesn’t support LiHV, I can only charge them to 4.2V and I am using 80%-90% of the actual capacity.
Further reading: what is LiHV LiPo battery?
These batteries weighs 6.8g each.
NBD suggest to use the Kingkong 31mm triblade propellers with their motors (on the left), rather than the more common quad-blade (on the right) probably because of the high KV.
On the contrary I found the quad-blade props actually perform a little bit better in terms of power with similar flight time.
These props are also available on Banggood in case you need some more replacement for free shipping :)
Assembling the NBD Tiny Whoop
Binding RX to TX (Frsky Taranis)
It’s easier to bind the RX to your TX first before putting everything together.
- Set the Taranis TX to D8 mode
- Power on the FC (either with USB cable or LiPo battery), then press the bind button. The red LED on the FC should now flash rapidly
- Enable bind mode on the Taranis, a couple of seconds later, the red LED on BeeBrain should flash slowly which indicates the bind is complete
- Now disable bind mode on the Taranis, restart the FC, and the red LED should stay solid
This Tiny Whoop is super easy to build, it took me about 10 mins to assemble, another 10 mins to setup Betaflight and start flying. No soldering, just plug and play, great for kids and beginners.
- 22g without battery
- 28.8g with 250mAh 1S battery
Flight time: 3:30 to 4 mins
It’s a lot of fun flying this little beast in the house. It’s fast and stable in both acro and angle modes, control is very precise, and it has no problem of doing flips and rolls indoor. I will upload some footage shortly.
NBD also offer this “travel case” – a foam padded cardboard box for storing your batteries and tiny whoop which can be pretty handy for transportation.