Cinewhoops (cinematic tiny whoops) are getting extremely popular recently, every manufacturers are jumping into it. I will be checking out a few popular options in the market. The first one is going to be the BetaFPV 85X HD.
What is a Cinewhoop?
Cinewhoops are tiny little quadcopters with propeller guards, equipped with HD cameras that is capable of recording “cinematic” 1080p footage. With the compactness and safety of a tiny whoop, you can fly indoor, go through small gaps, or even fly around people without worrying too much. It allows you to fly at places you could never imagine on powerful 5″ racing drones.
First Batch of BetaFPV 85X HD
Good thing I didn’t jump into it too early, as apparently the first batch of the BetaFPV 85X HD had some sort of quality control issues with the ESC, and soldering jobs. BetaFPV assured me that they have since addressed the issues, and indeed I didn’t encounter these issues during my testing.
Where to Buy
- RMRC (US): http://bit.ly/2UKhB03
- GetFPV: http://bit.ly/2LJkCfy
- Banggood: http://bit.ly/2UIs7VO
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/2u8ooF8
- BetaFPV: https://betafpv.com/products/beta85x-whoop-quadcopter
You will also need some 3S 450mAh LiPo:
- Banggood: http://bit.ly/2TLOlK8
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/2Fgzi1V
CNHL and Tattu are both good choices. Get the batteries with the “long stick” shape, it’s easier for mounting.
Specs and Features
Here are the components:
- F4 FC with MPU6000 Gyro (Target: OMNIBUSF4SD)
- ESC: BLHeli_32 16A ESC (burst 25A), supports DShot1200 (target: BETAFPV-16A-32bit)
- Motors: 1105 6000KV
- Propellers: EMAX Avan 2″ 4-Blade Props
- FPV & HD Camera: CADDX Turtle V2
- Receiver Options: Frsky XM+ / DSMX / Futaba S-FHSS / Flysky / TBS Crossfire
- VTX: 48ch, 200mW, Supports SmartAudio
- Lumenier AXII antenna
The weight of the 85X HD is 75g… heavier than the 58g they claim on the product page. Maybe they are referring to the cheaper version of the 85X with EOS2 camera?
Motor to motor distance is 85mm (the name gave it away). It’s slightly bigger than its brother the 75X Pro.
The selection of receiver options is simply awesome, covering almost all popular radio systems in FPV! Even the pricey Crossfire is available! I do however, wish they could add R9MM to the list in the future.
My test unit came with a Frsky XM+ FCC receiver. If you are also getting the XM+, make sure to pick the right firmware (FCC or LBT). But don’t worry if you picked the wrong one, you can still flash the receiver to the firmware you want.
Closer Look at the BetaFPV 85X HD Whoop
The frame is made from the same kind of flexible and crash resistant plastic as other Tiny whoops. But the blue canopy is made of much harder and thicker injection molded plastic, it doesn’t bend at all upon impact, This provides much better protection for the Caddx Turtle HD camera.
The first thing i noticed was that the camera lens sticking out of the canopy a tiny bit. Perhaps a little more extrusion on the canopy around the lens can provide better protection in crashes.
The camera tilt angle seems to be fixed at around 35 degrees, I couldn’t adjust it even after loosening the screws on both sides. Luckily the camera has quite a wide FOV (155°), I can see the horizon well when hovering, so it’s totally flyable at low speed.
You can start and stop the HD recording on the Turtle by pressing the push button under the lens (through the hole in the canopy).
The SD card slot for the Turtle can be accessed from the back under the VTX.
I really think the Turtle has a serious fundamental design flaw, there is nothing to stop the SD card from ejecting in crashes! It’s not BetaFPV’s fault, but I think a work around could be implemented in the design of the canopy. For now, maybe I’d just stick a piece of tape on the slot.
Moving to the back, there is an unbranded 200mW VTX sticking out. Perhaps the design is not the best in terms of aesthetics, but it’s certainly very practical! Firstly, you can easily press the button to change channels and power. Secondly, it’s great for cooling!
The VTX power can be switched between 0mW (pitmode), 25mW and 200mW. It even has SmartAudio setup out of the box, so you can change channels and power in Betaflight OSD. Very handy.
The VTX antenna is a Lumenier AXII that is customized for BetaFPV. Great VTX and antennas, but I am not a fan of how the antenna is mounted. I will show you a better way in the setup section.
There are four RGB LED’s at the rear, a nice touch by BetaFPV. It’s configured out of the box to display “Arm status” and “low voltage warning”. You can make it do other things as well, see my tutorials about setting up RGB LED in Betaflight.
This quads supports 3S Lipo through the XT30 connector. Some people tried 4S and burnt theirs so I wouldn’t recommend it. There is no point running 2S either. If you want less power, just limit your max throttle!
The Beta 85X HD comes with a battery strap and rubber pads installed.
The motors are 1105 6000KV running 2″ quad-blade props.
The motors are connected to the 4in1 ESC through 3-pin connectors. This makes swapping or troubleshooting motors much easier because you don’t have to solder.
The motor mounts are 9x9mm pattern. They are only using two screws per motor for weight saving. Mind you, they didn’t use any threadlock! I guess you should check yours and do this yourself.
Removing the battery straps reveals the receiver, a Frsky XM+. As you can see the antennas are just left hanging around freely. Is this intentional? Or did they forget? I don’t know, I only know this is asking for trouble, these antennas will get damaged sooner or later. I will show you how I mount them in the setup section.
Powering on with LiPo, and it didn’t blow up! Good sign :)
Taking it Apart!
Let’s take it apart and see what’s inside. There are only two screws holding down the canopy, on the left and right sides.
The wiring is pretty basic.
The canopy houses the Caddx Turtle V2, lifting that you will find three wires between the camera and the FC (5V, ground and video in). There are four black wires going to the VTX (5V, ground, video out, and smartaudio).
Here is the pinout diagram of the FC:
Two long “cables” from the Turtle are hanging freely in there. The connector is for connecting up to a “joystick” for changing camera settings, the black round thing is the mic for the camera.
Not sure if that’s really a good idea to leave them loose like this, they can be hitting the flight controller constantly during flight, that could have an effect on the gyro. I would probably secure them with a bit of hot glue or tape at least.
The FC and ESC are built on separate boards, connected by header pins (can’t be removed).
Here is the bottom view of the 4in1 ESC.
Setting Up For First Flight
The quad came pre-flashed with Betaflight 3.5.0, and PID is “tuned” out of the box.
If you want to update Betaflight, be careful! The 85X is running “props out” (motor rotations are reversed). When you flash Betaflight, settings might be reset back to default and your quad will flip over at take off. Just remember to re-enable “reverse motor rotation” in the Configuration tab. Props out is better for tiny whoops as it improves flight performance.
Binding RX to the Taranis was effortless: flip over the quad, and the bind button is right there on the receiver! However I do recommend putting the RX in transparent heatshrink to avoid shorts since it’s on the bottom. Use double-sided foam tape so it doesn’t wiggle around which is bad for solder joints and antenna connections.
I had to change Channel Map in Betaflight to Default (AETR) (you might or might not need to change, confirm in Receiver tab). Please note that, with the XM+, Channel 16 (AUX12) sends RSSI data back to the FC, you can display it on your OSD if you want.
Change to my rates and expos (RC rate 1.3, Super Rate 0.68, Expo 0.24).
There is no buzzer onboard, so it’s important to setup ESC beacon, so you can still find it when you crash under the sofa, or in bushes.
- Assign a switch to beeper mode
- Set beeper_dshot_beacon_tone = 3
I wasn’t very happy with how the VTX antenna was mounted (pointing backward at the horizon). When you are flying away from yourself, you are basically giving yourself the worst possible signal.
I recommend mounting it at 45-60 degree up, so when you are flying forward (the quad is tilted at 30-45 degree), your antenna is always straight up pointing at the sky, giving you the best possible signal.
RX antennas need better mounting as well. Same principle applies here, one antenna is pointing up at an angle, the other you can point it at any direction you want horizontally.
ESC settings all seem to be default (apart from motor spin direction). I might play around with PWM frequency and motor timing see if there is any room for improvement. As for now I increased beacon strength for louder “buzzer”, and uploaded custom startup tone.
Further Review Coming Soon
I have been testing this quad with 3S 450mAh LiPo. Out of the box, it flies very smooth without any further tuning, and the quad is very controllable. It’s certainly more powerful than a tiny whoop even though it’s way heavier. The throttle curve and response are very different, and it takes a few flight to get used. But once you overcome that, it can pull off some very precise flying just like a whoop.
Efficiency is very impressive. I am able to get 4:00 – 4:30 minutes of flight times (indoor). If I fly a bit slower I can sometimes even get over 5 minutes.
My ultimate goal with this guy is installing R9MM receiver (868MHz) for longer range, and GPS module for rescue mode in case of failsafe. I reckon this little guy should handle 1 mile range easily.
Here is some footage flying outdoor.
28 comments
Hey :)
Is it possible to change the receiver?
In example when you switch you radio Controller?
Greetings Alex
Yes you can change the receiver.
Now that it’s a year later are you still flying this quad? Have you found a budget Cinewhoop that you like?
I converted it into this.
Hi,
I have the CRSF Version. After updateing to BF 4.1 (by the way what a difference so smooth now) changing vtx power doesn’t work anymore :(
Any tips?
You need to set VTX Table: How to Get SmartAudio Tramp VTX Control Working in Betaflight 4.1 with VTXTables
Hi Oscar,
Do you have a wiring scheme for the r9mm and the Gps please?
Also, what is the Gps model ?
Where did you find the place to fix it?!
I’ve the new version of 85X HD 4S.
Thank a lot
Just got the 85x hd. At the moment I do not have a computer. Drone is bound to my taranis qx7. How do I arm the drone and test the flight without having to link up to a computer? Thank you.
You can’t change modes/switch without a computer.
Try pushing yaw stick to the right while keeping throttle at 0, see if that arms. If not, try all the switches you’ve setup in the QX7. If that doesn’t work either, the arm switch is probably not setup properly in Betaflight.
Hi, I just got my new Beta85X HD and having a lot of trouble setting it up in BetaFlight. Anyway, I managed to at least get the video recording and I can see the FPV in my goggles as well. I’ve noticed HD video that’s being recorded onto the SD card has some audio noise, cracking from time to time, almost like something is being shorted momentarily. Picture is great, but audio is breaking at times. What could be causing this? Please help since I can still return it and ask for exchange if it’s broken. Thank you so much in advance!
Hello
R9mm Flex connect only Tx1 (TX3 no function)
send to CLI :
serial 0 64 115200 57600 0 115200
set serialrx_provider = FPORT
set serialrx_halfduplex = ON
set serialrx_inverted = OFF
save
Betaflight:
– enable – ports-Uarts1- Serial rx and turn off Serial rx Uart 3
-enable -ports-Uarts6 – Peripherals – VTX TBS SmartAudio (LUA TARANIS VTX control)
– enable Receiver Mode- Configuration -Receiver-Serial-based resiever and enable Serial Receiver Provider FrSky F-port
– enable -Other Features- Telemetry
Hello Oscar,
How install F-port R9MM receiver and connect to TX3.
thanks Petr
great information, thank you very much. Did you configured the led on any specific way for the 85X HD? is so, can you please share your configuration?
Thanks so much.
Luis
Hi sir can i usec 3s 650 mah normal Tattu or cnhl lippos not the stick one? Will there be any issue?
as long as it fits, shouldn’t be a problem.
Hi Oscar,
My 85xHD really washout like hell (stock configuration)
Did you ever try the tuning recommandations for the 75x ?
Link here under. Did you find another way to fix it ?
Would you send to me your CLI setup please ?
Kind regards
docs.google.com/document/d/1xlaGtkMGJUP1UwcJw1xqIG9TCuA0a7NtbvzOQrsN7hM/mobilebasic
It just a nature of these heavy whoop – they simply don’t have enough power.
Hi Oscar
I already install R9MM receiver on it without no issue.
I use Fport protocol and connect to TX1 instead of sbus pad.
It can get telemetry and rssi direct from R9mm.
thanks
kay
How do you remove the props? I didn’t get an inbus with it and can’t find a size that fits. And if i search online i can only find a prop tool for pushing off.
Great article! I bought the Beta85X FPV version and I’m loving it. My only complaint is that I seem to get the dreaded yaw washout when doing anything other than straight and gentle cruising. I’m running the 3S 525 mah long stick from RaceDayQuads. Right now Airmode is turned off, and I’ve tried raising the motor idle percent to 9%. Any suggestions for getting rid of this yaw washout. Please help.
Hi Oscar, just got mine from TBS, bundled with CRSF. Unfortunately, it couldnt bind my TX. After short investigation, I noticed that RX gets no power (led off), but surprisingly is extremely hot (broken heat shrink tube and melted plastic). After further investigation with TBS engineer we found that power lines to RX was connected to serial lines (+5/G -> RX/TX). There’re also a lot of poor quality wires and soldering inside. Fixed it all and drone will be probably flying, but beware. It’s good to inspect everything carefully by your own in Betafpv, I presume. And replace wires.
Best regards and thanks for great job.
I was unfortunate enough to buy a 75x. It came out with a 6a esc that burns up quickly. Betafpv never offered to replace it. They no longer use the 6a, they upgraded to a 10 or 12a esc now. I looked for two months for a replacement but there were NO parts to be had anywhere on the internet, not even from betafpv So I had to buy the 16a esc. The first two they sent were crap!! Manufactured so poorly that the fc and esc wouldn’t plug together. Finally, THE THIRD ONE, with a little persuasion, went together.
The frames are really crap. The useless battery holder breaks after a few uses. I noticed they changed that nonsense on the 85.
I bought a nice carbon fiber frame, 3d printed some better parts and now have a fairly decent micro.
A bit of advice, if you want a good micro, BUILD IT YOURSELF.
Oh, forgot to mention, the camera failed, bought two extra because it seems they use really cheap quality cameras so I’m prepared for another fail.
I didn’t understand how to switch the VTX power below.
Could you please give me more advice?
The VTX power can be switched between 0mW (pitmode), 25mW and 200mW. It even has SmartAudio setup out of the box, so you can change channels and power in Betaflight OSD. Very handy.
Here: https://oscarliang.com/vtx-control/#osd
Although I’m a big fan of their products, I believe BetaFPV is being disingenuous about the ESC “fix”. They published their test reports which stated that using 3S batteries resulted in 0% failure rate when flying aggressively while 4S batteries resulted in 50% failure rate and in fact, would consistently fail if flown at full throttle for 15 seconds or more. When they spin this to say that they’ve fixed the problem with a new batch of ESCs that can be safely flown with 2-3S batteries only is ridiculous considering that their own test report proved that the ESCs never failed with 3S in the first place.
BetaFPV’s report can be read here:
betafpv.com/blogs/blog/announcement-on-85x-fire-accidents
Just FYI, the Amazon link you provided is for the quad with the EOS2 camera.
Ask betafpv to put out a version with the R9. So I can order one
Yes, I brought it up to them before releasing the review.