KK2.0 flight controller board has been out of stock for a while now. Many say it’s been so popular Hobbyking simply can’t keep up with the demand. But is it really? In the last few months some of us have noticed there is a new product available in their store, namely the KK2 status LED designed by MultiRotorMadman.
The LED is nothing new, but the KK2 board in the sample picture seems to be nothing like what we have seen before. Would that be the new KK2 board!? I guess there might be a new KK board that is about to be released!
Why do I say that?
From the technical side of view, on the KK2.0 board the output pins for the buzzer are in the top right hand corner, not the top left corner as shown in this picture. On either board it is connected to the Piezo buzzer output pins which is on the right side of the KK2.0 board (left pin is negative/black wire, right pin is positive/red wire). Also notice the different chip right in the top middle of the board in the picture. In the KK2.0 there are only two chips, one is gyro sensor and the other is the accelerometer. I think in the new version, they might be using a single chip that contains both sensors.
From the sales side of view, like the KK2.0 flight controller board, it’s been so popular, the same thing is going to happen to the new version of KK2 (KK2.1?), so it would make sense to think HK is stocking up this controller for its release?
It’s all just guessing at the moment! But wouldn’t that be cool if the KK2.1 is really on its way? :-D
UPDATE (01/Dec/2013) : I was right!
So my guess proven to be correct, Hobbyking has released the KK2.1 on the 28th of November. You can buy it from this link:
Get the KK2.1 Flgiht controller Board
Hurry up if you want one, they tend to go out of stock very quickly, and you might have to wait for weeks to get new stock.
To Udpate the firmware on the KK2.1 using Arduino, you can follow these instructions.
Quoted from the HK website about the new KK flight controller:
The original KK gyro system has been updated to an incredibly sensitive 6050 MPU system making this the most stable KK board ever and allowing for the addition of an auto-level function. At the heart of the KK2.1 is an Atmel Mega644PA 8-bit AVR RISC-based microcontroller with 64k of memory. An additional header has been added for voltage detection, so no need for on-board soldering. A handy piezo buzzer is also included with the board for audio warning when activating and deactivating the board.
5 comments
Hi Oscar ! Im so newbie to fliying a quad. Is there any chance or any way to activate the self-level on kk2.1.5 with only 4ch radio tx?
Hi Fenan, i think yes, you can do that with sticks. sorry i don’t remember how to do it as i haven’t used KK2 more than a year now.
Hy Oscar ! And First of all : Well Done !! your Blog give me all the tricks I ever search on the Web !! I play around Arduino , and RC model , and I can find a lot of little thing we don’t think when we start new project like an adventure .
So my question is about PID settings with the KK2.1.5 Board , with your articles I know what is P / I / D Gains , but what’s about the Limits ??? Limit of what ?? I dont know ( or found on the net ) what this value do to the quadri ??? So what is it when I put P gain = 100 ( for example ), and put the limit of 10 for this same P setting ? should this indicate to the board to limit of 10% of the P gain ? Wait for 10 seconds before regulate the process ? Could you explain this to me in simple terms ?
I never find somewhere somebody talking about this value …
Concerning the I value ( in the PI editor ) , this value isn’t clear for me … I dont know if I put low value , the quadri will react faster against wind or something else , or if I have to increase this value to obtain fast reaction ?
If I have all read , the P gain is the amount of power the KK will give to the motor to react , so I notice that
the quadri is “glued” to my stick when the P increase .
But I don’t see any changes when I increase the I gain or I limit …
Actually , my quadri can hover without flapping or crashing , but he allways slide around , turn itself around the Yaw axis but never stabilised .
What I have done before writting this :
1/ Balance the Props
2/ Balance the frame
3/ Synchronise the 4 in 1 ESC and set up the same value for the 4 at the same time .
4/ Insolate the board from the frame ( this was the most important Thing ! and let me hover the quadri now ! before I do this I never be able to land off )
5/ Scaling the stick on my Tx Radio
The quadri is 1,116 Kg weight ( ready to fly w/props / motors and LiPo ) / 450 mmn wide / 2209 1200KV Motors / 10×5,5 Props / 5000mAh LiPo / ECS 4 in 1 30A ( 40 max 10s ). I think I’m not wrong with this configuration , but I’m noob in 3D flyght but not in RC model cause I allready fly with an Heli .
I expect that my post isn’t to big for reading , and wait for your information . I should have to post this in any forum I found , but when I see 20 000 different answer for the same question AND I read carefully you articles , I think YOU are the right one who’s able to give the right information to solve my problems :)
Thank you in advance , and sorry for my poor english :)
Limits in KK2 PI Editor
They set the maximum of the available motor power to be used for correction. 100 is 100%. The “I limit” value is also known as “anti wind-up” in PID theory.
The limits is most important on the yaw axis. The prevent a large yaw correction from saturating the motors (giving full or no throttle), causing no control of the roll/pitch axis.
The default values permit 30% (“P Limit” 20 + “I limit” 10) of the motor power to be used to yaw correction, making 70% available for the roll/pitch axis, the most important ones.
You can increase “Yaw P Limit” for faster Yaw response. Note that Yaw response is also limited by the craft itself.
You can increase “Roll/Pitch/Yaw I Limit” for increased heading-hold “memory”, that is how far it can deviate and still return to original attitude. Too large memory can cause problems if you have a “blow out” on one of the axis, tries to correct it with opposite control input and then when the blow-out conditions disappear, the craft will try to return to an unknown attitude.
Unless you know what you are doing, leave the limit values as default. Default values has no impact on The PI tuning process.
Also leave the self-level “I gain” and “I limit” at zero. The I part of the self-level algorithm does not work well, this will be fixed later. (Accelerometers is too slow)
There are so many reasons that could cause a unstable quadcopter, it’s difficult to tell.
can you post a video of your quad?