DYS’s new SE2205 motors addressed quite a few issues we have been hearing on the RS2205 and some other popular quadcopter motors, performance is top of the league too, check it out.
Many thanks to DYS for sending me the motors for testing and review. These motors are widely available online, such as on Banggood (currently on sale for 28% off!)
Since we reviewed one of the best mini quad motors currently on the market, the EMAX RS2205 2300KV not long ago, I will be comparing these two motors. It’s worth mentioning that DYS introduced a few features in this SE2205 motor, trying to prevent a few problems that have been bothering the Red Bottoms users.
- Offers different length of motor bolts to prevent shorting motor windings
- Replacing C-Clip with screw on the bottom, so hopefully motor bell doesn’t come off anymore during flights. It also prevents motor bell “vertical play”
- Hollow shaft design to reduce chances of bending or snapped prop shaft
This motor also exists in 2550KV version as well as 2300KV.
Unboxing
Great packaging, motor and accessories are nicely kept in the plastic box.
Accessories include a prop nut wrench (M5), 2 prop nylon nuts, and 2 sets of M3 motor bolts of different length (5mm and 7mm). There have been many incidences where people smoked their EMAX motors or ESC’s, by shorting their motor windings because the bolts that come with the motor are simply too long (and only 1 length provided!).
The motor weights 30g, with wires 31g, with prop nuts 32g – 33g, about the same as the RS2205.
Although the thread on the shaft looks a bit rough, the material appears to be pretty robust. Hopefully we don’t get as many reports of “snapped prop shaft” as the Red bottoms.
They have slightly larger prop shaft (in diameter) which can make it a bit harder to mount/remove certain types of propellers.
The shaft is hollow as you look down from above, the diameter of the hole is about 4mm. This design adds strength to the shaft from bending, and allows the use of heavier duty metal yet doesn’t add much weight.
Comparing the EMAX RS2205 2300KV motor with the DYS SE2205 2300KV motor side by side, you can see the prop shaft is about the same length. The wires used for motor windings in the DYS look significantly thicker than the EMAX.
The same N52 magnets in the EMAX RS2205 are used in the DYS.
Due to the lack of cooling design, I noticed the motor runs warmer than the Red Bottoms during the bench test. Over heating could demagnetize the magnets and shorten motor life span, so that’s something to watch out for. It’s a good idea to check the motors after each sessions to ensure they are not too hot.
Like the Sunnysky Edge R2206 motor, the shaft is held in place with a M2 screw on the bottom, and not by the C-clips. Hopefully this solves the issues with motor bell coming off mid-flight, and also prevents motor bell vertical plays.
Also notice there is epoxy glue on the DYS motor to help holding the motor wires in place.
There are CW and CCW threads to the DYS motors, the CW version uses standard prop nut.
Thrust Test
From my thrust tests, it’s interesting to see that the DYS SE2205 2300KV motor was pulling a bit more power than the EMAX RS2205 2300KV, across nearly all the props I tested. However the EMAX is more efficient than the DYS in terms of g/W, almost feel like the DYS is a slightly higher KV motor.
I tested the motors with the following setup:
- ESC: XM20A
- Battery: Turnigy Nanotech 4S 1800mAh
- Voltage: 16.2V – 16.6V
- Turnigy Thrust Stand
Every thrust test you see online is likely to give you different results, due to the differences in testing environment, procedure and equipment. But it’s mostly useful to compare the data from 2 different motors in the same test.
DYS SE2205 2300KV
| Props | % | Peak Thrust – g | Peak Current – A | Max Power – W | Efficiency – g/W |
| DYS 4045BN | 50 | 258 | 5.0 | 81.0 | 3.19 |
| 100 | 626 | 19.4 | 314.3 | 1.99 | |
| GemFan 5030 | 50 | 312 | 4.6 | 74.5 | 4.19 |
| 100 | 795 | 17.1 | 277.0 | 2.87 | |
| GemFan 5045 BN | 50 | 405 | 6.6 | 106.9 | 3.79 |
| 100 | 946 | 25.0 | 405.0 | 2.34 | |
| HQ5040x3 | 50 | 410 | 6.9 | 111.8 | 3.67 |
| 100 | 1005 | 25.7 | 416.3 | 2.41 | |
| GemFan 5045×3 | 50 | 418 | 7.6 | 122.3 | 3.42 |
| 100 | 968 | 27.1 | 439.0 | 2.20 |
EMAX RS2205 2300KV
| Props | % | Peak Thrust – g | Peak Current – A | Max Power – W | Efficiency – g/W |
| DYS 4045BN | 50 | 252 | 4.7 | 76.1 | 3.31 |
| 100 | 619 | 18.1 | 293.2 | 2.11 | |
| GemFan 5030 | 50 | 299 | 4.0 | 64.8 | 4.61 |
| 100 | 779 | 15.4 | 249.5 | 3.12 | |
| GemFan 5045 BN | 50 | 395 | 5.7 | 92.3 | 4.28 |
| 100 | 955 | 24.0 | 388.8 | 2.46 | |
| HQ5040x3 | 50 | 389 | 6.0 | 97.2 | 4.00 |
| 100 | 980 | 24.6 | 398.5 | 2.46 | |
| GemFan 5045×3 | 50 | 395 | 6.6 | 106.9 | 3.69 |
| 100 | 997 | 27.3 | 442.3 | 2.25 |
Should I get DYS SE2205 over other motors?
DYS seems to be listening to the FPV and mini quad community, the features and improvements we see on their new SE2205 motors are just great. It also provides as much power as the Red Buttom (if not a bit more). One thing to consider would be the possible demagnetization due to lack of cooling.
We will certainly come back and update if there is any other issues we didn’t discover, as more and more people start to use these motors.
20 comments
I’ve been running these motors for over 6 months with DAL 5045 tri blades.
I really like them compared to some of the ultra high power offerings out there.
They run smoothly, don’t destroy batteries and certainly make plenty of power for a 210 class quad.
They’ve been through some serious crashes with me at the helm and in all but 1 instance (full speed into a metal post) they have remained true. I’ve replaced the frame on this quad 3 times due to damage and only swapped out one motor. Their durability has well and truly exceeded my expectations.
That said, you’re going to bend these and any other motor if you crash hard into concrete, that’s just inevitable.
The construction of these motors is good, there is no circlip to rattle around. However; the screw in the base is locked in place such that it is not possible to remove it without first heating the screw significantly. For this, turn your soldering iron to its maximum temperature and press the tip in to the hex of the screw. It will take several minutes to heat up sufficiently. Don’t heat the whole motor up as there is a risk of damaging the magnets that way. Further, you’ll need to use a sharp tipped hex driver to avoid stripping the screw. Don’t attempt it with a worn out old allen key.
yeah so i found that these motors suck..you can not replace the shaft because its part of the housing..so if you break or strip or bend one you buy a new motor..SAY AWAY..if you wreck..??…plus i have…. 4045 tri blades, 16 amp dys esc, on a 160 tyrant 11.1 volt 35c 1500mah and it dosent seem to have any power..it flys buuuttt..??
i ment 3045s tri blades..
where do i get replacement shafts for the 1806 motors. broke one in half..
My setup dys 2205 2300kv-prop lumenier 5 x3.5-esc ztw spider light 18a when i past 3/4 of the trotle the quad feel wobbling and i can here a curious sound,my timing now is med/high i try high demag…nothing change am i have the good esc for this setup i think so
Hi Oscar,
which bearing it uses?
Hey do you need the cw ccw config for the different prop windings or do they just slip on and the prop but locks it down
Thanks for the tests, this actually helped me decide on getting the red bottoms over the DYS based on your test results (odd to some I’m sure).
Hey there! Thanks alot for your tutorials, I’m just embarking on my own first build with no prior experience and your guides have been super helpful! This is a really silly question, but how do you actually mount these motors onto the quad? I can’t seem to find any directions and don’t have experience with other motors. I could just wack it on with the screws, but it is quite critical so just want to make sure I get it right!!
Hi bob, use the screws provided with the motors. Some people put loctite glue on the screws so they stay on better (screws can get loose due to vibrations) but this is optional.
you also need to make sure the screws are not too long, because it could touch the motor winding and short the motors with the carbon fibre frame.
* rs2205 is also combined with xm20a.. i use medium timing on that quad..
again, nice test Oscar..
..i just finished krieger build with se2205 and xm20a..
after a room test hover i measured temperature of motors about 45 celsius.. my rs2205 cant get that temperature in hover only tests.. is that normal?
what timing i should use with this esc-motor combo?
regards
I run my 2300KV and 2600KV with med high and it works pretty well.
45 celsius is pretty normal i think, it should cool down even more when doing normal flight as air flow is better.
Seems that se2205 likes flying more than just a hovering.. in flight their cooling works fine..
after a 4 minutes 1500mah 4s flight i read only about 35 celsius.. thats very similar to rs2205.
switched to medium high, and i cant see any difference..
Hi Oscar,
So, it is real the resistance of an hollow shaft? I mean, in a regular use and his regular big crashes.
Thank you!
I thought everyone was moving away from hollow shafts due to how easily they bend?
Hi Oscar,
Just got some red bottoms. They now come with 2 screw lengths. The shorter ones are perfect with my 4mm arms. The longer ones were definitely touching the windings though.
they have probably changed it since my review :) but that’s some good news! thanks for letting me know James.
Hi oscar
As the shaft is connected via a hex bolt and not a c-clip, does that make it critical to use the cw/ccw configuration? I prefer to just use cw for all four motors.
no don’t worry about that, the bolt on the bottom of the shaft is very tight.