I saw this interesting 1S 3-inch FPV drone using 18650 Li-Ion cell for long range, and I had to give it a try. I will share my rather unsuccessful attempt and what you can learn from my experience if you want to build this too.
Update ( Apr 2021): Good news, you don’t have to build it yourself right now, just buy it! HGLRC partnered with Dave-C to release a BNF model of this quad – the Rekon 3.
I love the idea that you can just snap a 18650 battery in this quad and fly for a very long time (20 minutes or more) :) And it’s super light too, only about 50g without battery. But don’t expect great flight performance, because it doesn’t. It’s slow and doesn’t have punch. It’s designed purely for staying in the air for a long time.
New to long range? Check out my tips on long range FPV flying.
Frame
Original design by Dave_C_FPV: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4769576
I am using this remix of the original frame, so I don’t need the battery tray (to save weight and cost): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4786123
The remixed frame needs battery contacts (with dimension 13.5×11.5mm), something like these: https://amzn.to/31n6iQc (Update: these have too much resistance, read my build update to learn about the issue)
Parts List
Recommended parts list:
- High discharge rate 18650 battery such as
- FC: 1S AIO Whoop Flight Controller with built-in ESC (5A is fine), such as HGLRC Zeus5 1S AIO
- Small 5V Video Transmitter that can do 300mW or higher such as
- 1202.5 11000-12000KV Motors, I think 1103/1104 should be fine too, but make sure they have M2 mounting, such as
- Nano FPV Camera such as the Caddx Ant
- 5V Step-up Voltage regulator
- 5V LC Filter
- Props: Gemfan 3018
- Crossfire Nano receiver
- 10V 1000uF Low ESR Capacitor (why use cap?)
- Light weight 18650 battery tray: https://amzn.to/31mdHzk
I used the following parts instead, simply because I already have them, not because they are better:
- iFlight Succex F411 AIO FC (don’t recommend, get the Zeus5 as recommended by Dave_C, or find another FC in this whoop FC round up)
- Mamba 1103 10000KV motors
- HQ T3x2x2 Props
- I didn’t use LC Filter for the VTX, video seems fine when hovering
Wiring Diagram
Credit to DaveC for this wiring diagram.
Build Updates
It took me around 6 hours to build this nano long range 3-inch, it was the soldering and figuring out how to mount everything in the limited space that took the longest.
Soldering these tiny components can be a bit challenging and requires steady hands and good solder tools :) Check out my recommended soldering tools here.
The weight is about 50g without 18650 cell.
My first attempt wasn’t successful though, the quad didn’t have enough power and couldn’t even lift off the ground. My first suspicion was the battery spring that isn’t good enough to deliver power from the 18650.
So instead of soldering the wire to the little tab, I soldered it right in the centre of the plate and the tip of the spring, the wires now have directly contact with the battery’s terminals, this should minimize resistance.
Or you could try this sort of battery contact which has much better performance, but i am not sure if you need to modify the frame or not: https://amzn.to/3tTTkWr (Keystone 209 1 Cell Leaf Spring Battery Contact, Nickel plated)
And that was kind of a success, the quad can now hover! It hovers at about 50%-55% throttle and it actually flies slightly better than I thought.
However, as soon as I move the throttle too quickly, the quad always drops out of the sky, and I could hear the ESC restarting chirp.
To investigate, I tried a normal 1S 300mAh LiPo on this quad, and it flies just fine! No more drop out.
So two possible causes for this problem I think:
- the 18650 battery I am using isn’t good enough (unlikely)
- the iFlight AIO FC can’t handle the voltage sag/fluctuations of the 18650 (more likely)
I am going to get some brand new VTC5A and try again just in case. In the meantime, I have also ordered the exact same HGLRC Zeus5 1S AIO FC that Dave_C used in his build, if the new 18650 doesn’t work then I will replace the FC.
Update (25/03/2020): I tried to update the ESC firmware tonight (downgrade actually, it was on 16.80, and I wanted to put 16.73 on it), but somehow it “bricked” the ESC, and now they won’t do anything when I plug in the LiPo, I also get “Flash Failed” error when I try re-flash them. Probably dead dead. Guess I will be replacing the FC after all :)
Stay tuned for more :)
Update (Apr 2021): I am just going to get the Rekon 3 BNF :) Don’t have the patience to mess with all this anymore.
21 comments
I build one of these with a 3D printed frame and parts of a meteor 65 pro (AIO, camera and video transmitter) that I had crashed. Ordered the motors and props.
And I used the golden flat tabs for the battery holder.
Used 22agw to connect the battrytabs to the board.
Only had the time to fly it once this week. Hovered at 40 to 50% throttle. Flew decent, nice to cruise. Had to stop flying after 10 min because I had forgotten to charge my controller.
Fun to build and fun to fly.
I also tried to build one of these, with a 1s lipo it can fly (by soldering bt2 pig tail to the same battery terminals) but at 90% throttle it can barely hold it’s height 1m from the ground. I used the betafpv 18650 frame which I think is the inspiration for this 3d print.
I didn’t think about the resistance from the terminals on the battery as potentially losing power and I think maybe I was being overconfident by attaching a hdzero whoop lite (with nano cam) directly on the battery terminals. Cause the board has the circuitry to take direct battery current I think I can get away from having extra circuits for step up and smoothing. I didn’t put a 1000uf capacitor though, only 450, do you think that might help?
I am actually interested to see whether I can actually fix this and fly it, I’ve seen people doing it, so it must be possible. I’m curious what the problems might be. I’ve also ordered a these molicel 35 amp batteries (akkuteile.de/lithium-ionen-akkus/18650/molicel/molicel-inr18650-p26a-2600mah-35a-li-ionen-akku-3-6v-3-7v_100815_2654)
The capacitor may improve video quality but it shouldn’t have an big impact on flight performance, even less so to whether it can lift off the ground.
I think the issue might be the battery you are currently using, maybe it just cannot provide enough amps. The moicel P26A is a good cell, I am also using it on these type of builds and it works great.
I’m attempting to build a version of the Nano Long Range and I’m wondering if the BetaFPV F4 1s AIO (w/ 5a esc and SPI Frsky D16 FCC) would be able to handle 1202.5 11600KV motors?
It’s hard to say without actually testing it. These 1S boards behave much differently when used with Li-Ion battery than LiPo, because the voltage sag is much worse. I’d suggest stick with known working boards to avoid wasting money. But if you already have this board of course you can give it a try.
Oscar,
Check out my NLR. Much easier to build and fly. Can make it a Short Range by picking an RX with AIO. Awesome flight times and Cadillac performance. The spacing of the motors is critical to getting better flight from these.
thingiverse.com/thing:4875802
I’m about to embark on this journey and ordered some bits and bobs. Finding it so difficult to find a 1s flight controller here in the UK, my last resort was Aliexpress (not too much of a fan ordering from there). I got a crazybeeX PNP v2.2 with built in VTX (save some weight there hopefully). Also got a jhemcu play f4 FC but cant find 5v step up board and low voltage filter (so that build is on hold). Got the mamba 1103 12000KV motors from banggood, hope they are ok? Thinking of using a crux 3 carbon frame instead of printing the deadcat.
Hey you don’t have to build it yourself now, HGLRC released a BNF model, just buy it!
https://oscarliang.com/nano-long-range-build/
I remember reading somewhere that you need the battery plug to have the gold tabs as the silver ones just dont cut it.
Do you think that the addition of a Supercapacitor eg 1Farad 5V such as this : digikey.com/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/PB-5R0V105-R/1026757
Would the additional capacitance help offset the voltage sag sufficiently to allow the FC to be happier? Thank you for your video. I am still laughing.
Very Best Regards,
James
Hi Oscar, do you have to change Mixer in BetaFlight in order to use deadcat frame? Is it somehow special calculation or I can design any frame.
no, no need to change mixer. Modern Betaflight is very capable handling these small frame configuration changes.
Send it here and I will play with it!
That’s what I thought first too… I already had a step down regulator in there but have thrown it out. I am running the VTX (eachine nano v2) at 400 mW and everything seems very stable this way. This baby flies around 12 to 14 minutes, depending on the wind… As soon as voltage drops below 3 V the video gets worse but its still flyable until the voltage is so low that the quad basically drops out of the sky. So I think more powerful VTX’s might need an extra regulator but it’s not necessary always. This thing weighs in at about 120 grams with battery so Dave_C his first build at about 98 grams (the one with the carbon fibre frame) still managed to be lighter.
Thank you for the build compliment!
I have a Happymodel Crux3 lying around. Do you think the 1202.5 6500kv would also work?
KV is definitely too low. For a 2S build, maybe :)
“Flash failed” when flashing the ESC often comes from using not fully charged battery. It is 100% with 4S, I dont know how it is at 1S. May be you should try flashing from DC power of exactly 4.20 or 5V…
The ESC doesn’t respond at all now when I plug in the LiPo, looks like the MCU is either “bricked” or died.
Hello Oscar,
I just finished my version of this build, using a carbon fibre frame instead. Do you have any idea why Dave_C is using a step up regulator in his wiring when the Zeus 5 AIO board he is using delivers 5V ? I didn’t find any specs on how much current the 5V out delivers, so there might be that. I have the issue that I have video drop outs the closer the voltage comes to 3.00 V while flying, maybe it would help with that? I also have the problem that the quad sometimes just falls out of the air but after restarting the flight controller it will continue to fly longer.
Here is a picture for you:ibb.co/qWdXkdW
The 5V on the FC isn’t very powerful and the VTX can draw way over 500mA so it’s best to have a separate voltage regulator for the VTX.
Nice build you got there!
Thanks for the build log, I have already started sourcing my parts from BangGood :)