The NewBeeDrone Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 represents an ambitious refinement of an already high-performance platform. In this review, I’ll walk you through my hands-on experience flying and setting up the RaceSpec V2, provide an honest and practical evaluation of its pros and cons, and help you decide whether this drone matches your flying style.
Check out our recommendations for Tiny Whoop gear here: https://oscarliang.com/best-tiny-whoop/
Table of Contents
Where to Buy
You can purchase the Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 directly from NewBeeDrone: https://oscarliang.com/link-h9ba
In the box comes with:
- The Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 Whoop (with props pre-installed)
- Two extra sets of propellers
- Prop remover tool
- Spare canopy
- Spare screws
- USB-C adapter
- Stickers
Not for Beginners
This is one of the first FPV drones I’ve encountered that explicitly states on their product page it’s not intended for beginners, and new FPV pilots should avoid purchasing it. That candid warning tells you everything you need to know about this drone: it’s incredibly fast, challenging to control, and not particularly forgiving in terms of durability. If you break it, repairs are entirely on you.
Specifications
- Flight Controller: AT32 F4 (ICM42688 Gyro)
- ESC: 18A 4in1 ESC (Bluejay Firmware 0.19 48KHz)
- Motors: HMB RS 0702 30000KV
- VTX: Adjustable Outputs (25mW, 100mW, 400mW)
- Receiver: UART-based ELRS with WiFi settings
- RX Antenna: Ceramic SMT for durability and weight savings
- Camera: BeeEye V2 800TVL (10x10mm PCB)
- Battery Connector: A30 (compatible with BT2.0)
- Recommended battery: 1S 300mAh LiHV
- Firmware: Betaflight 4.5.1 RacePro
- Weight: 16.5g
First Impressions on Design
Out of the box, my first concern was the extreme 45° camera angle. Given previous experience with the Air65’s more modest 35° angle—already challenging indoors—I feared constant crashes would be inevitable without adjustments. Previously, I had to reduce my camera angle to about 20° to comfortably fly indoors.
On a positive note, the frame is notably flexible, which effectively absorbs impact from crashes and improves durability compared to more rigid traditional whoop frames.
Another significant improvement over the V1 is the canopy redesign, which positions the camera further forward. This solves a critical issue experienced by many V1 users, where the camera PCB could hit the flight controller during impacts, causing damage. The updated canopy seems robust, with minimal jello during flight.
However, the canopy material (TPU) is quite flexible and can deform slightly after sitting in the box for a while. Using a hairdryer to warm up the material and straighten the canopy before flight may be necessary.
Designed specifically for hardcore racers, the RaceSpec V2 features ultra-light 0702 30,000KV motors, directly soldered to the FC board using ultra-thin wires to save weight. However, replacing these motors can be challenging, especially for pilots who aren’t confident with soldering, due to the extremely tiny solder pads.
Additionally, these motors use regular magnets rather than curved magnets, a minor detail but noteworthy for racers seeking every possible performance edge.
Electronics: A Closer Look
The Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 introduces a new AT32-based F4 flight controller, offering superior specifications on paper compared to the BetaFPV Matrix 5-in-1 used in the Air65. Here are some notable upgrades:
- AT32 F435 MCU: This faster microcontroller replaces the older STM32 F411.
- ICM42688 Gyro: Upgraded from the previous BMI270 gyro.
These changes appear primarily driven by cost and supply chain considerations rather than a dramatic performance leap. Personally, I didn’t notice a significant difference in flight handling compared to the V1.
The AIO FC board also incorporates an impressive 18A 4-in-1 ESC, which is unquestionably overkill for a 1S tiny whoop. However, having extra headroom is reassuring, especially for voltage spikes during crashes. Clearly, durability and robustness were key considerations, even if most pilots won’t ever push the ESC to its full potential.
The flight controller integrates both a VTX and receiver (RX), with the FPV camera conveniently connected via a plug-in connector, significantly minimizing soldering.
The upgraded 400mW VTX is a considerable improvement over the V1’s limited 25mW transmitter.
Another welcome upgrade is the switch from an SPI-based to a UART-based ExpressLRS receiver. This transition is a significant improvement for long-term firmware support, as well as allowing receiver updates independently from Betaflight.
For weight reduction, NewBeeDrone removed the onboard USB connector, replacing it with a small external USB-C dongle connected via a 4-pin header.
Lastly, it’s great to see the transition from the older PH2.0 connectors to the more efficient A30 connectors, which provide better power delivery and overall performance.
Flight Performance
Indoors
Even during initial hovering tests indoor, the Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 clearly was more powerful than the Air65. It feels incredibly lightweight and punchy. However, the extreme 45° camera tilt made indoor flights nearly impossible. Throughout indoor flights, it felt like I was almost always staring at the ceiling; whenever I pitched forward to see ahead, the drone shot forward at such high speed that it quickly became uncontrollable. Eventually, I decided outdoor flights were necessary to test this drone properly.
Outdoors
Using recommended 1S 300mAh batteries, I got just over 2 minutes of flight time. The RaceSpec V2 is notably power-hungry due to its high KV motors and 48kHz ESC setting. Even one punch-out immediately triggered voltage warnings, yet it remains undoubtedly one of the fastest and most responsive 1S whoops I’ve ever flown.
Surprisingly, this tiny quad handles windy conditions remarkably well. Flying confidently in 15MPH wind, it genuinely felt more like a larger 2-inch freestyle drone rather than a small 1S whoop. The RaceSpec V2 is exceptionally quick, agile, and impressively snappy around corners.
However, bear in mind that this exceptional performance compromises durability. With minimal protective structure, this whoop won’t endure repeated hard crashes as gracefully as typical tiny whoops. Consider this carefully if aggressive flying and frequent crashes are part of your FPV journey.
Downsides
In my opinion, the most significant downside is the extreme camera angle, which is simply too aggressive for comfortable indoor flying. While I understand the drone is designed for hardcore racing—as the name clearly implies—this severely limits its versatility and appeal to the general public. Including an optional canopy with a lower camera angle would greatly broaden its usability, allowing more pilots to comfortably enjoy this whoop.
Another minor issue involves the new A30 battery connector. While I’m glad that NewBeeDrone has finally transitioned away from PH2.0, the straight connector and relatively short cable aren’t ideal. When using a standard 1S 300mAh battery, the connector pushes the battery forward, offsetting the quad’s center of gravity. A 180-degree connector, similar to the one used on the Air65, would be a better choice.
Lastly, I’m not opposed to using an external USB dongle to connect to Betaflight—BetaFPV also uses this approach to save weight and space on the FC. However, NewBeeDrone’s implementation feels overly extreme. Instead of a proper connector, the FC has only four tiny holes on the PCB, requiring precise alignment of the adapter’s pins. If the USB cable is wiggled slightly during connection, you risk losing contact, making the process fiddly and frustrating.
How to Setup for First Flight
To configure the drone, if this is the first time you ever encountered FC with AT32 processors, you might need to install drivers (if you can’t connect to Betaflight after plugging in USB cable).
To connect the FC to Betaflight, you also need to use the USB adapter provided in the box, be very careful when plugging it in.
The FC comes with Betaflight 4.5.1 RacePro, and the FC target is HUMMINGBIRD_RS_V2. Original CLI Diff can be found here.
Firstly, bind the receiver, receiver firmware target is NewBeeDrone 2.4GHz Micro RX. Firmware version is 3.5.3. Follow this guide if you don’t know how: https://oscarliang.com/bind-expresslrs-receivers/
For maiden flight, here are the Betaflight configurations:
- Load ExpressLRS Preset
- Set Your Rates
- Set Arm switch, angle mode switch, turtle mode switch
- Set OSD (disable “Core Temperature” under warnings, replace RSSI with RSSI_dBm
- Adjust your VTX channel and power (25mW to 400mW) based on your flying environment.
Important:
The RaceSpec V2 uses a custom version of Betaflight firmware (Betaflight 4.5.1 RacePro), specifically tuned and optimized by NewBeeDrone. The default settings are tailored for the Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 and differ significantly from Betaflight’s standard defaults. NewBeeDrone explicitly warns against flashing standard Betaflight firmware for this reason. If you ever need to restore the drone’s factory settings, simply click the “RESET” button in Betaflight’s Setup tab.
Still Not the Absolute Lightest
At 16.5 grams, the Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 is among the lightest tiny whoops on the market (for comparison, the BetaFPV Air65 weighs 17.1 grams).
Despite its minimalist design, there’s still room for further weight reduction. Previously, I weighed individual components from both the BetaFPV Air65 and Hummingbird RaceSpec V1. Combining the absolute lightest parts from each could result in an ultra-light whoop at around 15.6 grams—almost a full gram lighter than the RaceSpec V2. Check out my detailed breakdown here: https://oscarliang.com/best-tiny-whoop/#The-Lightest-65mm-Analog-Tiny-Whoop-Build-2025
Final Verdict
The Hummingbird RaceSpec V2 is arguably one of the fastest BNF tiny whoops currently available. If you’re a skilled pilot and have ample space to fly aggressively, it’s truly a dream—agile, responsive, and impressively powerful. However, if your goal is casual indoor flying or relaxed flights in smaller areas, this whoop may be too aggressive and challenging to control, with relatively short flight times.
Durability is another consideration. Its minimalist structure and aggressive performance mean reduced crash resistance and more complex repairs. Unless you’re highly experienced and comfortable handling intricate repairs, this probably isn’t the best choice for casual bashing or frequent crashes.
Ultimately, the RaceSpec V2 is an excellent option for serious racers looking to shave fractions of a second off lap times. However, if you’re new to FPV, I strongly recommend choosing a more beginner-friendly drone with robust construction, simpler repairs, and plug-and-play convenience. Check out my detailed tiny whoop recommendations here: https://oscarliang.com/best-tiny-whoop/#Best-65mm-Tiny-Whoops
3 comments
The AIO board where the USB attaches is horrible. Broke in a single day. it is too easy to get out of alignment and or damaged even when trying to be delicate. For that reason the entire build is trash if the AIO bord can no longer be accessed. Lots of fun for a day.
Any idea why they called it V2 when previous version, also marked as “RaceSpec” was 3.1? For me that’s confusing as hell.
What you have is probably the normal version of the Hummingbird V3.1, not a Racespec. V2 is currently the newest version of the Racespec.