Spent one whole day building this new Catalyst Speed Addict Racing Quad! And it looks absolutely fantastic!
Check out my review and assembly of the frame.
Components of My Speed Addict Racing Mini Quad
I will be building this racing quadcopter frame with the following parts:
- RotorGeeks RG20A Opto ESCs with BLHeli 1.4 firmware
- RotorGeeks 5V BEC for RX and FC
- Cobra 2204 1960KV Motor
- Boscam TS832 32ch 5.8Ghz Video Transmitter
- Sony Super HAD 600TVL FPV Camera
- Hobbyking SuperSimple OSD
- Frsky D4R-II Radio Receiver
- Gemfan 6045 Propellers and HQ6045
- 4S 1800mah 65C Lipo
- Naze32 Flight controller with Cleanflight 1.9 firmware
Some flights with this frame!
09 Aug 2015 – Sheepcote Time Trial Racing
Still got a bit of jello in the video, I need to work on how to mount the GoPro camera on this new frame!
But this new build is so bloody fast and locked in! I feel like the RotorGeeks ESCs gives the motors a better punch at full throttle, than the Blue Series ones, despite they are on the same BLHeliSuite settings.
30 Jul 2015 – FPV Meetup
My first ever test flight with this frame. Very smooth on a calm day, even though I was just using the cheap Gemfan 6045 props. PID was completely copied from my EVO250 build, and it just works! Maybe still need to tweak pitch axis a bit more. But i am very happy with the result!
Current PID and rates
Still working on optimal values, come back later!
Let’s Start Building!
Traditionally I would put the ESCs on the arms, for better cooling. But this time I want to test the ESC tray that comes with this frame, so I am putting them under the frame. Also a good chance to test the limit of these ESCs. :)
I am installing the 11 degree tilted motor mounts, just to see how they performs. But in the end I have to take them off. Don’t get me wrong, they are great! The extra 11 degree tilt really gives you the freedom to go faster and still have the horizon in view. But it’s a bit too much for me, and I was having trouble landing as I could not see the ground at all as I level the mini quad.
And I think I am doing a pretty good job with the wiring lol.
And I am using a voltage regulator to get 12V along with a LC filter to clean up the power for my FPV gear. Next picture shows the installation of FPV camera.
I am putting 1 LED strip under each arm, so when I fly forward and the quad is tilted, my fellow pilots can see me from behind, so we don’t crash into each other. These LEDs strips are recycled from the ZMR Diatone PDB, they support up to 4S.
I am putting both video transmitter and radio receiver on the top plate, and using jumper cables to connect them to the electronics on the main frame.
One thing we need to be aware of is the position of the LiPo which need to stick out to the tail of the frame in order to get a good COG balance. If you are not using the GoPro camera cage, then this shouldn’t be a problem for you.
And there we have it! I went for the full frame setup which the frame weights 220 grams. But that doesn’t seem to affect my speed much.
Hey Oscar, Where did you connect the RotorGeeks micro stepdown regulator? I ordered the micro (5v) along with the same motors and esc’s. The bec has jst pins. http://rotorgeeks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=34_47&product_id=289
I connect it between FC (motor pins + and -), and LiPO (any where on the PDB)
the JST Pin is literally same as 2 pin servo female lead can be plugged straight into the motor pins. I cut the other end and solder it on my PDB.
Perfect. That’s exactly how I was going to do it. Thanks!
Hi Oscar –
Did you run a cmix on this build? Before I email Catalyst for the CAD – thought I’d ask you. I, too am running the PIDs from my EVO250 and thought this may help with a slight tilt to the left front on throttle / punch out that I’m getting.
no i am not. IMO there is no need on this frame. Here is my theory.
The width is longer than the length, so in theory pitch axis should apply less power… But… because of the camera and battery location, it takes more power to move pitch axis… so it roughly cancel out anyway…
would these components be good with a qav250 frame? would you change anything? and what fpv gear would you recommend. apart from what you listed above what more would be needed for a clean build? any different antennas for better distance? and lastly here in NZ you can go on 1.2 ghz frequency if you jump a few loopholes like getting a transmitting licence, would it be worth it for a beginner?
thanks for your help,
Hi Alex, yes these components should work on any mini quad frames. I use the same parts on three other quads (EVO250 and ZMR250)
depends on what you use you quad for, if just for racing, or short distance flying, 5.8Ghz is more than enough for within 600m of range.
5.8Ghz FPV system is now so cheap you can get a full setup for less than US$50 (without monitor or goggles)
Hi Oscar – In regards to your jello video issue. I have been using this moon gel stuff. Apparently it is made for drum kits but I’ve had it on my 280 racing quad. Even when the props get chipped and damaged and the quad has a ton of vibration, the video is still jello free. amzn.to/1MioYmM
When I’ve been using it, I will mount the gopro as loose as possible to let the gel absorb as much vibration as possible. Cut two strips under the gopro and one small piece on the back against the frame. Cut the pieces to about .25 inches wide.
Thanks for your blog. Its been a big help!
thanks Joel, yes I do have some moon gel and I try, thanks for the tip bud!