The BeeBrain V1 is the first custom designed flight controller to fit the Blade Inductrix (AKA Tiny Whoop). It can run both Cleanflight and Betaflight, allowing the user to adjust PID and fly in full rate mode.
Update: Why spend time building tiny whoop when you can just buy one ready to fly? Here are some of the best Tiny Whoops on the market.
The BeeBrain V1 is available from NewBeeDrone.
The BeeBrain turns the already popular Inductrix into a must-have indoor FPV flyers accessory. Acro mode in Betaflight allows the pilot to fully execute flips and rolls, and truly bring out the freestyle goodness in this tiny flying machine.
For other Tiny Whoop FC check out this list.
- F1 flight controller
- MPU6500 Gyro/ACC sensor
- Supports Cleanflight and Betaflight firmware
- 26mmx26mm (fits Inductrix frame perfectly)
- Weight: 3.4g
- Options of Frsky Taranis or Spektrum DSMX radio transmitter
It also comes with 4 spare screws, and 4 vibration grommets.
In this post we will discuss how I set it up for flying, and things I like and dislike.
Initial Setup of the Frame / FC
1. First remove all of the hardware from the frame.
2. Cut the small tabs on the sides, so they don’t press the bind button during flight.
3. Add the rubber grommets to the indentations in the BeeBrain FC.
4. Place the BeeBrain on the frame, with the arrow facing the way the default board faced.
5. Screw the board down onto the frame with the included screws.
6. If you have upgraded motors put the ones with the black and white wire and insert them in the front right and the rear left. Place the motors with the blue and red wires in the front left and rear right. NOTE: the CW and CCW motor positions are swapped from what they were previously, because in Betaflight/Cleanflight, they spin the opposite direction. (If you want to keep them the same position, I believe you can just set yaw direction to the reverse direction)
7. Plug the motors into the socket that is nearest them on the underside of the frame.
8. Add the props back onto the Bee Brain. However orient them like a regular mini quad with the front props spinning in towards the middle and the back props spinning outwards.
Taranis Setup and Binding FC
1. Firstly create a new model on your Taranis. Set the model up as a regular model without changing any of the channels in the menu.
2. Change D16 to D8 on the same menu.
3. Scroll down to bind and select it (enter bind mode on Taranis)
4. Hold down the bind button on the bottom of the FC board, while plugging in the LiPo battery (this will bring the BeeBrain into bind mode)
5. Your Taranis should chirp 4 times, this shows it has bound.
6. Unplug the battery on the quad. Turn your Taranis off Binding mode.
7. Go to the mixer page on the Taranis scroll down to source and hit source. Choose the switch you would like to do to arm your inductrix. I use the SA switch.
8. Your Radio is now setup.
BeeBrain FC Setup
1. If you have not already got Betaflight configurator, download it from here.
2. Plug the BeeBrain into your computer via a Micro USB cable. Press connect in the top left corner.
3. You can arm the quad with stick or switch, it’s up to you. I use switch because I want to use air mode. I select AUX 1 as an Arm switch (which I previously setup in the Taranis using SA 3-pos switch). Move the slider so that it starts as 1200 and goes all the way up to end (2100).
4. To setup mode, I select Angle and select AUX 1 again. This time set the slider from 1200 to 1700. The result of this is, when the switch is LOW, the quad is not Armed, when it’s in MID, the quad is Armed and activates Angle mode, when it’s in HIGH, the quad is Armed and in ACRO Mode.
5. Next I select Air Mode and select aux 1 once again. Set the slider from 1200 all the way to 2100 once again.
6. Press save and then disconnect.
Congratulations you have setup your new BeeBrain.
The BeeBrain is great if you enjoy flying in rate mode. It gives you all the freedom how you want your craft to fly, your rate, expo and PID. The design of the board is pretty good, the location of USB port is easy to access from the bottom.
However it doesn’t fly very well with stock motors, punches are nearly non-existent, and yaw is not very responsive and hard to control. It’s recommended to get the upgrade motors such as the insane speed motors from Newbeedrone. I have yet to test them myself though.
The battery connector included is only rated for 30 connections. I would probably replace it to LOSI connectors for better durability. (I might have to go through this with my batteries though)
If you want more flight time, you can do the 2-blade mod by snipping 2 of the blades from the props. However this might degrade the life of the motors according to some users, because the motors run faster and wear out quicker with 2 blades.
Does the BeeBrain Fit Eachine E010 Out of the Box?
Out of the box? Nope.
Although 3 out of 4 screw holes match, the rear one isn’t. I don’t think it matter though, you can probably get away by using just 3 screws.
However the real problem is where the USB port is on the board. It’s in the same place as the FC rear screw hole on the frame. I think we can overcome this problem with some DIY mods.
Apart from the USB port / Frame conflict, the rest are completely compatible.
I just acquired an E010 frame and BeeBrain controller, and have been looking at various build blogs to see how to resolve the ‘rear-hole-misfit’ problem. I noticed that the “Rambo-Whoop” build calls for removing the back wall of the battery compartment, presumably because the battery is too long to fit centered otherwise…
Once this back wall is removed, there is really no difference between the front and back of the frame, so I am considering mounting the controller so the REAR mounting hole and the two side holes match up, and the little post where the “formerly rear” hole sits simply supports the FC board. With this configuration, access to the USB connector is a little tight, but it seems accessible enough.
Just wondering if anyone can see any serious issues with doing this?
I do see a serious issue with modifying the frame to eliminate the USB plug interference… Removing that part of the frame would result in the two sides having no structural connection…
I am a newbie into quads. Do you think its possible to bind it with the default inductrix spektrum dsmx remote ?
no not possible.
Is it true this will not work with eu or g2 spektrum transmitters
yes that’s true.
Hey! Great write-up, wish I’d found it when I was relying on Youtube to teach me how to install the BeeBrain with my Taranis.
Can it bind with my flysky i6s? I don’t have sure a taranis
No LVC or telemetry makes this a pita to use without ruining batteries.
This a good point, wish I had read this before buying this, furousfpv acro whoop v2 looks much better.
Will this fit the inductrix fpv (the yellow whoop)?
I have since found out that yes it will. However I am curious if there is a way to reverse one of the motors. Only one of my upgraded motors is spinning the wrong way. Can I just reverse the two wires on the motor having issues? Or will it damage the FC/motor? I have the blue and red wired motors on the front left and the back right and the white lead motors on the front right and back left. The front right motor is spinning clockwise or outward from the front for some reason.
sorry i don’t have the yellow whoop to confirm :(
Hi Oscar, Thank you for the article, but I do have one correction for you and your readers. Your arrows pointing to the tabs to cut off the frame are incorrect. They point to the two posts used to attach a canopy, which do not interfere with the bind button. To prevent inadvertent re-binding, cut the vertical tab sticking off the side of the battery wall.
Thanks for all your great help and for being a big part of driving our hobby forward!
Can I bind this to the radio that came with my Blade SR 120 helicopter?
Is it compatible with new inductrix fpv?
Don’t forget about the fairly blatant ripoff from China the BeeCore
yes it was mentioned in my another post about betaflight options for tiny whoop :)