FrSky just released the new M9 Hall gimbal for Taranis X9D radio transmitters, it was a much awaited upgrade for Taranis users. In this article, we will compare the new gimbal to the stock Taranis X9D, and demonstrate the installation.
Buy the M9 Hall Sensor Gimbal from: Banggood | Amazon | GetFPV
What is Hall Sensor?
The M9 gimbal has hall sensor instead of the traditionally used potentiometer and small brushes in the stock Taranis gimbals. The original gimbals contain parts that can wear out, unlike the hall sensor gimbal that uses magnets to get stick position reading.
Inside the box we will find a gimbal and a set of screws for installation. There are four screws for mounting and one for disabling self centering (if you are using it for throttle).
There are three connectors on the back of the gimbal, two smaller plugs and one big one. Each connector has different wire length. Various screws and plates are used to adjust the tension and ratcheting.
Stick length has an extra 2mm (approx.) compared to the stock gimbal sticks, i.e. 25mm vs. 27mm. You may feel the difference when holding the sticks.
Adjustments for throttle stick
The gimbals come by default with the sticks spring centered. A little adjustment is needed to turn one of the 2 sticks into a throttle stick.
A silver screw needs to be placed through the hole in the metal element and rest it on the gimbals plastic casing (indicated by the screwdriver on the photo below). After this mod there will be no more tension and spring.
Installing the gimbals is really easy.
First step is to open Taranis case. There are 6 screws on the back. Once opened it is obvious what the wires that we need to pull from the sockets are.
Once that’s done there are 4 more screws on the front panel of the radio we need to remove that are holding the gimbal to the TX front panel. When they are done, the gimbal can be removed.
To fit M9 gimbal, simply reverse the above steps: first, the front panel screws, then plug in the connectors. Just make sure it’s done gently so there is no unwanted damage to the electronics inside the case.
Important note: sensors on the gimbal should be facing outwards, they are located on the same side as the tension and ratchet plates.
It is easy to find out which of the three connectors goes where. The biggest connector is obvious due to size. The other two have different wire lengths but each of them will only fit in the correct socket anyway, because they can’t reach the other one.
After putting the transmitter housing back together, it marks the end of the installation. The last step is to calibrate the sticks – long press MENU then go to screen 9, and do it there.
You can adjust the gimbals tension for each axis with the circled screws.
My M9 Hall Sensor Gimbal Experience
So how do the M9 Hall sensor gimbals perform?
Sticks are bit longer than stock ones and that was obvious in my first flight. I could tell straight away that the gimbals’ movement was smoother, and there was higher precision. To me the way the gimbal mechanism works definitely feels more “premium”.
My flying on those gimbals feels better. It is something that is hard to explain in words since every pilot flies differently, but I found the whole experience much more pleasant than the stock gimbals.
- Nicer feel than stock gimbals
- Better precision
- Good quality
- Easy to install/replace
- Should last longer than stock gimbal
- When stick is not centered there is an about 1mm gap between the gimbal elements that can let dust go inside the radio housing
- Sticks are longer than the stock gimbals, so it may take a little time to get used to (muscle memory….)
Is It Worth the upgrade?
The replacement stock gimbal costs $13 while the M9 gimbals are $19. Taking into account the price, the ease of installation and the positives I listed above -YES! This is one of the best upgrades I have done on my trusty Taranis so far.
I replace the orignal gimbal on taranis X9D+ from M9 and modify them to have a Mode2 but on first screen when you click on Page Burton you have the stick positon from gimbal
On my right gimbal screen is opposite from real.
When I go down on screen it go UP
How WE can modify it please
Hi guys a question for you, I’m looking to buy a x9d of a friend and he told me he has hall gimbals to put on it but he has put on to the shell, so basically it a transmitter without gimbals. He told me he’s lost the 8 hex bolts to hold the gimbals in place. Can anyone tell me what size they are m3 x 15mm or other size? Please help as I have big ideas for this transmitter lol.
With the M9 Gimbals do the pivot point of the sticks sit higher or lower in depth, compared to the stock gimbals?
Now we also have the M9-R gimbal which is slightly more expensive than the M9 gimbal. But is it worth buying the M9-R?
I would like to know your opinion on which is worth more, can you do a review of the M9-R gimbal?
Thank you very much.
As far as I know, they are designed for racing, and have a shorter throw than the normal version. If you race a lot you can give them a try otherwise the normal version is just fine :)
Would it be compatible with TBS Tango?
They are not designed for the Tango, so probably no.
What about the M7 hall gimbal. Looks like that one has a similar connector with 6 wires. So that might work on a tango.
Just one question: what do I need to adjust the gimbals tension?
I just snapped a gimbal tension spring in my brand new X9D (20hrs sim time only) with stock gimbals. Can anyone tell me what size the springs are so I can go about ordering some replacements? Also are the stock springs a known weak part?
I think you can move the spring from the throttle since it is not in use. I don’t know if there has to be a spring at all there, but the tension shouldn’t matter since it’s not moving so you could basically use a rubber band or even a wire.
Just fitted mine and when I go to calibrate sticks the throttle channel is running backwards, anyone got any thoughts?
check if the gimbals are installed the correct orientation?
if that’s okay, just repeat the stick calibration?
The issue is actually that these people haven’t properly implemented the “horussticks” option in openTX. I was having this issue today.
If you want to get these gimbals working properly, you need to go into the companion software (note: this screen pops up the first time you install Companion 2.2, so you can set the horussticks option there, but don’t fret! There is another way.) and select settings in the top menu (the one that says file, edit, etc.) then select the settings options in the drop down menu. Once there, select “horussticks” (it’s one of the many checkboxes) and click okay.
Once you’re there, you’re almost done. Now that you’ve told the software what options you want included in your radio firmware, go to file, then click download on the drop down menu. Once you’ve done that, select “download firmware” and the software will download the firmware for you. (save it wherever you like)
Now, you’ll need to connect your radio to the computer in bootloader mode. To do this, hold the trims for rudder/yaw and aileron/roll towards the center of the radio, and briefly press the power button (this is the same on the X9D/Plus, and the X9e – I use the X9e, so this is confirmed working on that radio). Then, plug in the USB cable (note, if USB is connected while you try to power the radio on into bootloader mode, you will be unsuccessful.)
With the USB cable installed, I like to go to the read/write menu, and select “read models and settings from radio” just to make sure that the computer sees the radio properly.
After that, you’ll want to select “Write firmware to radio” in the same drop down menu. Then, you simply wait for it to complete (Actually wait for it to finish – in my experience, the computer likes to sit at 100% for a little while before it actually completes.)
Once that’s finished, you should be off to the races!
I hope that helps anyone who’s having trouble, and I would really encourage the authors here to include this (or some variation thereof – preferably with screenshots) for anyone who is having trouble with this part of the install.
I got same problem. Checked gimbals installation and did calibration but no help.
Any solution for this problem????
I’m really wondering why you haven’t mentioned that in Mode 2 the cable coming from the throttle stick will slightly scratch the case every time you move it. Won’t happen on the other side because it’s bowed all the way from the top due to the reverse position of the Gimbal.
We have installed the M9 gimbals on 2 different taranis, and haven’t experienced any problems with what you’ve described…
The sticks on the M9 gimbals are a single piece, instead of two pieces to lock the length adjustment. How am I supposed to fix them in place once I adjusted them?
There’s a hex screw inside the stick end. once you get the height right just screw it in to lock it.
got mine fitted, then found out the gimbal stick threads are different so couldn’t use my turbo thumbs, i had some jr style ones which the thread was right but where the thread ends on the m9’s and it gets wider it stopped me from being able to screw down all the way, so cut them down and now i can screw down so they’re about 2-3mm lower than i could on the stock ones:)
Could you please share a link to the turbo thumbs that you have fitted to the m9 gimbals? I’ve tried a couple sets and nothing fits.
You mentioned that sticks are longer in M9. Is it possible to replace them from stock gimbals?
No these new ones use an m4 thread while the older gimbals used an m3 thread. I do know that the height is adjustable so maybe you may be able to decrease the height to your preference. I fly with sticks on my taranis that are about 2-3 mm higher than the stock ones. it makes it real easy to transition from side to side or blip the throttle as I’m a pincher.
Will those also fit the Turnigy 9XR? The default replacement gimbals of the Taranis do fit with some modification…
No I don’t think so the voltage is different for these gimbals from what I remember.
What is the dimensions between the screw holes?
Stock gimbals are $13.50 each, the M9’s are $20 each. How do you define better precision?
More resolution, you’re able to get the stick (power and movement of the quad to the exact same point). I upgraded my older gimbals to these and my flying is much more precise/smoother. It’s like going from blheli to kiss or blheli s. Small changes in stick position have a small effect allowing you to hit gaps etc much better and have more control going in and out. It’s the best way that I can explain it it’s something you have to just try yourself.
Probably a long shot, but does anyone know how they compare to Aurora 9 gimbals?
Much better. In terms of smoothnessit’s close but the aurura 9 still relies on potentiometers jeti and some of the more expensive radios use hall effect sensors much better in the long run.
I am still on the fence. I live in the high desert. Where fine sand is a big issue. Any way to maybe protect that gap?
I ordered mine at horusrc.com before they got posted on rotorriot etc. but they are still prosessing my order…. and I get no reply from their hotline even the chat function is useless!
I’m NOT happy…
if it says processing then you’re waiting for inventory I think. Their preorder isn’t even that great. They just notify you so it’ll still be first come first served when it comes down to it which sucks.
Is it dirt resistant in the same way as old gimbals were? Some people say “holes” are bigger thus easier to get dirt into inside mechanism etc.
please see negative points 2 :)
The whole point of these gimbals is the fact there are no potentiometers (POTS) with carbon tracks to wear out. The hall effect sensor is contactless so in theory should last forever