The Walksnail Avatar HD Goggles X promises to be a game-changer in the realm of FPV goggles, boasting a long list of new features and improvements over its predecessor. In this in-depth review, we’ll explore the Goggles X’s design, functionality, and user experience. Whether you’re an experienced FPV pilot or a newbie seeking the best FPV gear, this article aims to provide you with a comprehensive understanding of what the Goggles X truly offers.
Further readings:
- New to Walksnail FPV System? Check out this introduction to learn more: https://oscarliang.com/walksnail-avatar-digital-fpv-system/
- Still wondering which FPV system is best for you in 2023? Check out my analysis: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-system/
Table of Contents
Where to Buy?
Get your Walksnail Avatar HD Goggles X from these vendors:
- Caddx: https://oscarliang.com/product-72gy
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-camw
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-i0xd
- NBD: https://oscarliang.com/product-7d2n
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdK4xp1
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/40bvG9o
The review unit I received came with the following accessories. Do note, the production units might differ slightly:
- 4x omni-directional antennas (RP-SMA)
- Zipper carry case
- XT60 power cable
- Quick-start guide
- Lens cleaning cloth
Key Features
The new Walksnail Avatar Goggles X boasts a ton of impressive upgrades comparing to the V1. Here’s table comparing the official specs and features between the two goggles.
| Avatar Goggles V1 | Avatar Goggles X | |
|---|---|---|
| Screen Resolution | 1920x1080p | 1920x1080p 100FPS |
| Aspect Ratio | 16:9 | 16:9 |
| FOV (Diagonal) | 46° | 50° |
| Focus Adjustment | YES | YES |
| IPD Range | 57-70mm | 54-74mm |
| Input Voltage | 7V-21V (5S) | 7V-26V (6S) |
| HDMI Output | NO | YES |
| HDMI Input | NO | YES |
| USB-C Output | YES | NO |
| Canvas Mode | YES | YES |
| Sharing Mode | YES | YES |
| Race Mode | YES | YES |
| AV IN (Analog) | NO | YES |
| Modular VRX | NO | YES |
| Replaceable Lenses | NO | YES |
| Infrared Sensor | NO | YES |
| Built-in Gyro | NO | YES |
| Faceplate Foam | 1 | 2 |
| Bluetooth/WiFi | NO | YES |
Let me explain the enhanced features in a bit more detail:
- Screens now support 1080P at 100fps; the V1 Goggles does not support 100fps according to Walksnail
- The optical clarity has been doubled, FOV increased to 50° (Check here for FOV comparison)
- Input Voltage from 7V to 26V, supports 2S to 6S batteries
- Customizable LED colors on the front cover.
- Customizable front cover: You can swap it out for a patch antenna or an analog VRX module.
- HDMI In: Supports HDZero and can be used as computer display for simulators and movies)
- HDMI Out: Allows video feed played on external monitors
- AV In: Supports analog receiver modules and CVBS input.
- Focal length adjustment ranging from +2 to -6 diopter.
- IPD (Interpupillary Distance) adjustable between 54-74mm.
- Interchangeable lenses cater to astigmatism, myopia, and blue light protection needs.
- Built-in infrared sensor that turns off the screens automatically, extending OLED lifespan and battery life.
- Sharing mode (Audience Mode) available.
- Built-in gyro: As Walksnail suggests, this could pave the way for innovative applications like fixed-wing and RC vehicles, perhaps even head tracking.
- Modular VRX, allowing potential future upgrades.
- Integrated Bluetooth and Wi-Fi modules. As per Walksnail, they’re crafting an app for firmware updates, video sharing, drone location, and more.
- Two distinct faceplate foam paddings for diverse facial structures (but the review unit only comes with one).
Goggles X Specifications
- Screens: 1920×1080 100Hz OLED displays
- FOV: 50°
- IPD Adjustment Range: 54mm-74mm
- Focus Adjustment Range: +2.0 to -6.0 Diopter
- I/O Interface: HDMI Out/In (Mini HDMI), AV In (5Pin 3.5mm Audio Port), Power port (DC5.5*2.1mm), Micro SD Card Slot
- Communication Frequency: 5.725-5.850GHz
- Number of Channels: 8
- Transmission Resolution: 1080p100fps, 1080p60fps, 720p100fps, 720p60fps
- Bit Rate: Up to 50Mbps
- Minimum Latency: 22ms
- Transmission Distance: More than 4km (2.5 miles)
- Transmitter Power (EIRP): FCC: <30dBm, CE: <14dBm, SRRC: <20dBm, MIC: <25dBm
- Power Input: 7V-26V (compatible with 2S-6S Lipo/Li-ion Batteries)
- DVR Storage: Supports SD cards up to 256GB (not included)
- Connectivity: Integrated WiFi and Bluetooth
- Weight:
290g315g
A Work in Progress?
When I began reviewing the Walksnail Avatar Goggles X, I had an extensive list of points to discuss. But I was constantly given new firmware to try as many of these issues seemed to had been addressed during my review.
This proactive approach to improvement is commendable. However, it also subtly hints that there might have been a rush to launch this product. But, on the brighter side, by the time you get your hands on these goggles, most significant issues should likely have been ironed out.
As I publish this blog post, a few minor concerns still remain, which I’ll go through in this review.
Design and Build Quality
First and foremost, let me address the elephant in the room – there’s no ON/OFF switch on the Avatar Goggles X! I get it; it might be a sore point for some. But remember, you can always power down the goggles by simply unplugging the battery :)
I must say, the new goggle design is refreshingly unique, diverging significantly from the Avatar goggles V1 and any other models I’ve come across. The Goggles X has a plastic housing with dark metallic paint finish that stands out.
Its form factor is similar to the Avatar V1 (and Fatshark Dominator HD) and the DJI Goggles 2/Integra.
The menu buttons are similar to the original goggles, but they are now better placed and more user-friendly, conveniently located on the top right.
A commendable upgrade is the introduction of the AV Input and HDMI input/output (Mini HDMI ports) located at the bottom. This means you can now use these goggles with analog through the AV IN and enjoy HDZero via the HDMI IN. You can use the goggles as an external monitor for your PC, to play movies or FPV simulators. You can also output video feed to an external monitor via the HDMI output.
Standard in premium FPV goggles today, the Goggles X offers both diopter focus and IPD adjustments. The adjustment dials, though a tad stiff, ensure you don’t accidentally knock them out of focus.
For me personally, the stock faceplate’s fitment and comfort have seen improvements since the original V1 goggles. While there’s a slight light leak around the nose, it’s negligible during flights, the silver lining is that it’s not pinching on my nose which feels more comfortable during those long flights. The foam pad on the faceplate is held on with velcro, which means possible aftermarket replacements.
It appears the foam padding for the DJI Goggles 2 also fit the Avatar Goggles X, it’s great because there’re already a bunch of choices available on the market.
The fake leather head strap is attached with velcro, this makes it easy to adjust. You can even swap it out with a 3rd party strap. While I’d prefer it slightly wider, it’s sufficiently elastic and does the job.
User Experience
While some might prefer the aesthetics of the V1, others may lean towards the Goggles X. Aesthetics are highly subjective. However, when it comes to user experience and the range of features, the Goggles X stands as a clear and monumental upgrade without doubts.
For those familiar with the Walksnail system, transitioning to the new goggles is a breeze. The way it works is exactly the same as the old goggles.
The menu buttons, similar to the V1, include two push buttons and a 5-way joystick (5D button). Their placement is spot on, especially for the 5-way joystick, enhancing usability. On the V1, the joystick is placed at an angle, it was easy to press the wrong direction, I’m glad they fixed it in the Goggles X.
I didn’t notice any significant difference in RF performance compared to the goggles V1 when using the same set of antennas.
Walksnail boasts of “doubling the optical clarity” in their marketing material. However, during my tests, the image quality, color, and sharpness of the new Goggles X, felt similar to the V1. Here’s a side-by-side screen image comparison, these are actual images of the screen, taken with my iPhone. There might be some inconsistencies in exposure, detail and color due to my phone, but they look almost the same in my experience.
Left: Goggles X; Right Goggles V1
Possibly due to the slightly larger 50° FOV (field of view), I did observe a tiny bit of blurry edges and corners. I had similar issue with the DJI Goggles 2 for the same reason. I was hoping I could fix it by setting “Zoom Out” under Display to 90%, just like I did with the DJI Goggles 2, but this settings still doesn’t work like the previous goggles (screen doesn’t change).
Check here to compare Goggles FOV: https://oscarliang.com/js/fpvgogglefov.html
Walksnail hinted at the potential to swap lenses for astigmatism, myopia, and blue light-blocking glasses, but I’m still awaiting for official instructions on how to do it.
The user interface (in-goggle menu) looks identical to the previous goggles, with additional options specific to this new goggles in the Device page.
One minor gripe is how long it takes to get an image from boot-up. It took 35 seconds from the point you plug in the battery to getting an image from the quad. With the V1 Goggles, it only took 27 seconds.
DVR video recording: The file format is MP4, resolution is 1280x720p (depends on your transmission settings), bitrate is 50Mbps, basically identical to the previous goggles.
You can hear the anti-fog fan noise when wearing the goggles. Currently, there doesn’t appear to be an option to turn them off or adjust their speed. However, they seem to work in preventing the screens from fogging up so far, further testing is required in those summer days.
Enhanced Antennas Performance
The Avatar HD Goggles X came with some great stubby antennas!
For those who recall, the Avatar Goggles V1 were notorious for their subpar antennas, which led to disappointing performances.
However, with the Goggles X, the story is different. When I put these new antennas to the test, both on the old and new Avatar goggles, their performance was exceptional. Surprisingly, they even outperformed the DJI V1 Goggles antennas in terms of range and signal penetration.
The Goggles X is equipped with four omni-directional antennas, and they’re all removable. The antenna connectors are RP-SMA (there’s no pin in the antenna), allow for easy upgrades to directional antennas if you’re seeking better range and penetration. For most people I think the stock antennas should be enough, but if you want you can check out my FPV antenna recommendations: https://oscarliang.com/best-fpv-antenna/
To use third-party antennas, don’t forget to remove the washers first.
Similar to the Goggles V1, out of the 4 antennas, 3 are receive-only antennas, while only 1 can receive and transmit simultaneously. If you ever want to use a patch antenna, ensure you attach it to the receive-and-transmit antenna connector.
This receive/transmit antenna is at a different location. While it’s located on the top right (with the screens facing you) on the Goggles V1, it’s on the top left on the Goggles X (with the screens facing you).
Proximity Sensor
Between the lenses, there is an infrared sensor, which Walksnail refers to as Proximity Sensor. It’s there to detect whether the goggles are in use. If not, it will turn off the screens automatically. This thoughtful feature not only extends the OLED displays’ lifespan but also conserves battery.
However, the sensor’s sensitivity seems low. There were instances when the screens wouldn’t turn on despite me wearing the goggles. To activate the displays, I had to press the goggles firmly into my face. And the moment I let go, the screens switch off again. I hope there would be a way to calibrate the sensor in the future.
For the time being, I’ve disabled this feature (there’s an in-menu option). I’m not a big fan of this feature, because it can take a second or so to turn on the screens, which can be a little inconvenient and dangerous. Imagine this: you lift your goggles for a quick line-of-sight check on your quad/plane and then put them back on again, you could be flying blind for a brief moment. The DJI Goggles 2 has a similar feature, and they don’t even have the option to disable it. I simply put a piece of tape over the sensor to keep the screens on at all times.
Modular VRX Board Design
The Walksnail Avatar Goggles X features a modular design, allowing users to replace the VRX board. But why should this matter to you?
According to my contact at Walksnail, they are in the midst of developing a new digital system that is said to offer five times the range—extending potential distances up to 20km compared to the current system’s 4km. Expected to launch by next August, the Goggles X will be able to support this new system with a swap of the VRX board. This upgradability ensures the Goggles X will not become obsolete if Walksnail releases a new system.
To access the VRX board, start by removing the two screws located on the top of the faceplate.
Then carefully unclip the top cover (you can use some plastic tool to pop it open), reveals the VRX board which is secured by 4 screws. Additionally, you’ll notice the Bluetooth/WiFi antenna taped to the inside of this top cover.
Customizable Front Cover
The front cover of the Goggles X features multi-color LED bars – a unique design in FPV goggles. You can set them to 3 different colors: red, green or blue, or just leave them turned off (there’s an option in the menu). These not only add a flair of personalization but also serve a practical purpose. By illuminating the LEDs, you get a visible reminder if your goggles are left powered on, whether they’re resting on a bench or lying on the ground.
This front cover can be removed, allowing for the installation of an adapter for an HDZero VRX module, or an analog receiver (possibly something similar to the BDI Digidapter).
Walksnail offers a patch antenna to replace the front cover which you can purchase here: https://oscarliang.com/product-wikh
Power Consumption
The Walksnail Avatar Goggles X handled power from 2S up to 6S batteries correctly as expected. The power consumption averages around 8.3W. Here are the current draws at various input voltages (consistent in different RF power levels):
- 1.06A at 8V
- 0.52A at 16V
- 0.35A at 25V
Compared to its predecessor, the Goggles X seem to be more power-hungry, use about 30% more power. The V1 consumed around 6.4W (for instance, 0.8A at 8V or 0.4A at 16V). However, one notable distinction is the voltage support. While the previous model could handle up to 21V, the Goggles X supports up to 26V. This means you can just pick up any 6S drone battery to power the Goggles X without ever worry about damaging your goggles because voltage is too high.
- A 6S 1000mAh LiPo, or a 4S 1500mAh LiPo would last around two and a half hours.
- A 4S 3000mAh Li-ion battery would last around 5 hours.
Input Voltage Testing
The Goggles X appears to overestimate input voltage by 0.2V. While the error is so small and shouldn’t cause any issue, it would be nice if there’s a way to calibrate it.
The Goggles X intelligently identify the number of battery cells based on the initial input voltage. As the voltage drops below a certain level, sets off a low voltage alarm—typically around the 3.5V-per-cell mark.
I tested the goggles using a bench power supply with variable voltage, starting from 26V and worked my way down. Here’s a breakdown of my findings:
- At 21.0V: Constant beeping – this is the low voltage alarm for 6S.
- At 18.8V: The beeping stops.
- At 13.9V: The low voltage alarm for 4S is triggered.
- At 13.0V: Beeping stops.
- At 10.4V: The low voltage alarm for 3S is triggered.
- At 9.2V: The beeping stops.
- At 7.0V: The low voltage alarm for 2S is triggered.
- At 5.6V: The beeping stops.
- At 5.2V: The goggles shuts down. The screens go black, but the fan is still running.
Having a low voltage alarm at 3.5V per cell is ideal for LiPo batteries. However, for Li-ion it’s too high and there’s potentially 40% capacity left. Li-ion cells can typically be discharged down to 3.0V or even lower, having an option to change low voltage alarm would be a welcomed addition.
Interestingly, the goggles remain functional even below their stated lowest input of 7V. But it’s worth noting that I’m uncertain if RF performance is impacted at such low voltage. For safety and optimal performance, it’s best to follow the recommended voltage inputs and avoid powering your goggles below 7V.
Finally, the goggles seemed to skip the low voltage alert for 5S. Considering these findings, it might be wise to avoid using 2S and 5S batteries to power these goggles. 3S, 4S and 6S are all good choices.
Analog Support (AV IN)
One of the biggest complaints of the original Avatar Goggles was the lack of support for analog FPV system. Finally Walksnail has added an AV input in the new Goggles X, and analog support is now possible. The AV IN port is a 5-Pin 3.5mm Audio Port. I tested it with the BDI Digidapter from the DJI V1 Goggles, and it worked flawlessly.
To switch to AV mode, you have to long press the return button. This toggles you through the available video modes: AV IN, HDMI IN, and Walksnail’s native mode.
One advantage here is the signal behavior. When you lose signal, the Goggles X displays static just like a typical analog goggles. This contrasts with the DJI V1 Goggles, which would revert to its logo display, and be stuck there for an extended period. This “static screen” in the Goggles X allows pilots to immediately regain video feed as soon as signal is back.
However, in AV mode, it defaults to 4:3 aspect ratio, with no option to switch to the wider 16:9. Hopefully this can be added in the future.
To use analog receivers, anticipate a need for a custom mount/adapter. It’s currently unknown whether Walksnail will provide such accessories, or the FPV community will have to take on the task of creating custom solutions.
Beware that at the time of writing, DVR doesn’t work on the AV input or the HDMI input, it only works on the Walksnail Avatar mode. Pressing the record button does nothing in AV in and HDMI in modes. That means there’s no DVR for analog, and you would have to use an external device for that. Unfortunately this is a hardware limitation and this feature might not be available any time soon as far as I know.
Another bonus is that you can output the analog feed via the HDMI output, to a monitor or another goggles.
HDMI IN
The Goggles X worked fine as an external display for my computer via the HDMI Input port.
To get into HDMI mode, press and hold the return button for a few seconds. This toggles you through the available video modes: AV IN, HDMI IN, and Walksnail’s video mode.
It appeared as a 1920x1080p display, and I could watch movies and play FPV simulators. On your computer, make sure to set it as “external display” and NOT “mirror main display”. However, there’s a design hiccup: the HDMI input port is recessed too deep into the goggle’s housing. This design choice means that some cables might be incompatible due to an inability to fully engage upon insertion.
Some cables are incompatible with the HDMI ports
Moreover, while the goggles are compatible with the HDZero VRX module, to achieve a streamlined setup will require a custom-made mount, which again, is currently unavailable. The stock Mini HDMI cable from HDZero doesn’t work either. It does not insert fully into the HDMI port on the goggles for the reason mentioned above, so you’d have to get another cable with a longer connector.
However, note that the HDZero’s 90fps Mode doesn’t work with the Goggles X – one of the most desirable features of HDZero. This means you can only use 60fps mode in HDZero when paired with the Goggles X.
HDMI Out
Video output is now done via the HDMI out port. Note that it doesn’t support 1080p 100fps (high frame rate), since most displays that takes HDMI input doesn’t support that high frame rate (invalid format error), you’ll have to lower the walksnail system to 60fps (standard frame rate) in order to do video out. This might increase latency slightly but it is what it is.
Other Minor Concerns
Apart from the highlighted issues, there are a few more quirks worth noting:
- The actual range of IPD (Interpupillary Distance) adjustment turned out to be narrower than expected when I measured it using a calibre. My measurements suggest a range of around 58mm to 70mm (+/- 1mm), which is similar to the Avatar Goggles V1.
- The absence of a USB-C port could be a drawback for some. For video output, an external display must be used via HDMI. A USB-C port would have been convenient for video output to an Android smartphone.
- The maximum screen brightness of the Goggles X seems to be about 80% of its predecessor. I’ve raised the issue with Caddx and waiting for a reply, it remains to be seen if this is a hardware limitation or software related. I don’t think this is a huge problem because I personally never use maximum brightness anyway, as it actually hurts my eyes. Even under direct sunlight I normally find setting brightness to around 4 more than enough with the original Avatar Goggles, so for the new Goggles X, that would be around 6.
Conclusion: Should You Buy the Avatar HD Goggles X?
Once, the HDZero Goggles were hailed as the most versatile FPV Goggles, supporting all FPV systems except DJI. Now, the Avatar Goggles X is competing for that title, with support for Walksnail, analog, and even HDZero, all at a lower price!
This raises the question: Which goggles are right for you?
If you already own the original Avatar Goggles V1, an upgrade might not be immediately necessary. That’s because the image quality and RF performance are largely similar between the two, unless the analog and HDZero compatibility is important to you, you might want to just hold on to your V1 until they drop the promised new system.
However, for those new to Walksnail, the Goggles X presents a compelling option. Priced at just $459, which is lower than the flagship goggles from all other competitors including DJI, HDZero, Fatshark, Orqa and Skyzone, the Avatar Goggles X delivers the best Walksnail experience hands down.
If you have been only using the Walksnail External VRX module, now might be a good time to upgrade to the Goggles X to get the most out of this system.
Get your Walksnail Avatar HD Goggles X from these vendors:
- Caddx: https://oscarliang.com/product-72gy
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-camw
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-i0xd
- NBD: https://oscarliang.com/product-7d2n
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdK4xp1
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/40bvG9o
Pros:
- Competitive price point at $459
- Stellar image quality
- Compatible with Analog, HDZero, and Walksnail FPV systems
- Comes with removable, high quality antennas
- Supports 2S to 6S Power Input
- Future-proof with modular VRX design
- Adjustment dials for focus and IPD
- Allows for prescription lenses
- Customizable front cover
- Comfortable faceplate foam padding
- Intuitive menu buttons
Cons:
- Higher power consumption
- Missing USB-C video output (replaced by HDMI output)
- Deep-set HDMI ports causing compatibility issues for some cables
- Extended boot-up time
- Reduced maximum brightness
- Display Zoom Out setting still doesn’t work
- Low voltage alarm sets to 3.5V per cell, too high for Li-ion batteries
- No analog DVR yet
- Some promised features are still work in progress – we don’t know when it will happen
Goggles X vs. External Module
When deciding between Walksnail Goggles X and the Walksnail external module, it’s essential to consider cost, user experience, and setup complexity. The Walksnail Goggles X, priced at $459, offers a straightforward, integrated digital experience. On the other hand, while initially seeming cost-effective, unless you can find a pair of analog goggles that’s cheaper than $220, pairing it with a $239 external module can quickly surpass the cost of the Goggles X. Not to mention most analog goggles out there have lower specs than the Goggles X.
Additionally, using the external module complicates setup and could introduce more potential troubleshooting issues. Given these factors, the Walksnail Goggles X is recommended for those seeking a hassle-free, high-quality digital FPV experience, while an analog setup might appeal to budget-conscious enthusiasts comfortable with more complex configurations.
How to Get Started?
Using the Avatar Goggles X is the same as other Walksnail goggles. If you need a detailed walkthrough, my setup guide is available: https://oscarliang.com/setup-avatar-fpv-system/
Goggles X Beeping Indications
- Link State: DI… DI… DI… DI…
- Firmware Upgrade: DI……. DI……. DI……. DI…….
- Upgrade Failed (due to missing SD card or firmware): DI DI DI DI
- Boot Failure (Reboot or firmware update required): DI.. DI…… DI.. DI……
Enabling FCC Mode
Out of the box, the Goggles X might be in CE mode, meaning fewer channels are available and it’s limited to 25mW RF power. Switching to FCC mode unlocks all the channels (8 channels) and RF power levels (up to 1200mW), but do this if it’s legal where you are. Here’s how to do it: https://oscarliang.com/setup-avatar-fpv-system/#Unlocking-FCC-Mode
How to Link VTX to Goggles
- Power on the VTX, wait until the green LED is flashing slowly.
- Power on the Goggles, wait until you are in the home screen.
- Press the link buttons on both devices. The VTX LED should turn solid red, and the goggles should start beeping. It should only take a few seconds to pair.
- Once paired, the VTX LED should turn solid green, the Goggles should stop beeping, and you should get an image in the goggles from the drone’s camera.
How to Upgrade Goggles Firmware
Follow the instructions here carefully for a smooth upgrade: https://oscarliang.com/setup-avatar-fpv-system/#How-to-Update-Firmware-on-GogglesVRX
Here’s the summary:
- Download the upgrade firmware with a file name like this: AvatarX_Gnd_X.X.X.img (X.X.X is the version number). Copy it to the root directory of the SD card. Make sure NOT to change the file name.
- Insert SD card back in the goggles, and plug in the battery to power them on.
- When you see the home screen, press and hold the link button on the Goggles for 8 seconds, and the Goggles should automatically restart and start beeping. (Do not power off during the upgrade.
- The firmware update can take around 5 to 10 minutes, when complete, the beeping should stop and the goggles will reboot.
43 comments
hi oscar, i try to plug hdmi input from windows laptop to play simulator but windows does not recognize the goggles x as monitor , and no image showed on goggles, iam sure the cable is plug in correctly, since on another device as input source is working and able to display the video on goggle. did u have any tips to windows 11 can recognize it as monitor? so i can play simulaor using this goggles, thanks
Hi Oscar, i have the same issue with infrared sensing feature. You mentioned that “there’s an in-menu option” to disabled it, would you mind telling me which menu? like the steps: settings – device – then which menu option?
Thanks 🙏
Hey OSCAR, got antother problem. I got problkem with update. My goggles came with 36.42.4 firmware but when I try to update to latest 37.42.3 Firmware i got NO UPDATE message during update procedure. I tried several different sd cards formated by goggles. Does any one experienced similar issue ??
Most likely you took a firmware for avatar_gnd, not avatarX_gnd.
Hey OSCAR, You have mentioned that “You can even swap it out with a 3rd party strap.” Are there any suitable 3rd party strap becouse orginal one does not match with my face.
Basically any straps that has velcro ends should work. Try searching for “fpv goggles straps velcro”.
My mistake. English is not my native language. I meant the face foam.
Not that many faceplate foam made for the Goggles X specifically yet, but this one looks cool: https://newbeedrone.com/products/goggle-foam-avatar?aff=17
After extensive testing you can not unlock power on the goggles X you are stuck with the maximum of 350mw ,I have tried everything to unlock the power upgrade to come to the conclusion it is not possible with the firmware that caddx use ,I am so disappointed after spending money on what is supposed to be better to find out that my fatshark HD02 with the avatar module can offer me more i.e power,not happy 🤬
Is it possible to use a laptop USB-C power supply to power the goggles (using a converter from usb-c to whatever goggle x receives)?
Hey, I have this but I can’t seem to get it to receive analog signals can you please help me? I’m eager to hear the answer.
First thing I’d check would be the AV cable you are using. What module are you using it with? And are you using any adapters?
Do you have to have a transmitter connected to unlock the fcc settings? any help would be great
Do you have to have a transmitter connected to unlock the fcc settings?
Hello,
I connected a Fimi Tx10 radio transmitter to the HDMI input of the Walksnail Avatar X HD FPV goggles.
The image on the lens often vibrates, the colors change, sometimes I only see horizontal and vertical stripes. The screen goes dark several times, then after about a minute and a half it goes completely dark.
Until now, I used Eachine EV300D FPV fpv goggles to display the image of the Tx10 via HDMI port. This is how I flew my model.
Why does the image (video) display not work through the HDMI port of the Walksnail Avatar X HD FPV glasses?
Greetings,
Have you received any information about how to replace the lenses in the Goggles X?
A little odd: The original Walksnail Patch Antenna is meant be connected to the lower two Antenna connectors.
But I read it’s recommended to use at least the upper left one, because this is both RX and TX?
Because the bottom two connectors on the goggles are receive only.
One of the top connectors is both receive and transmit, it’s more beneficial to have this connector connected to a higher gain patch antenna if you want more range.
That’s why there’s a debate where to mount the patch antenna.
But the WS Patch will have higher gain than the Omnis, so why connecting them down?
Sure, if you use WS Patch and two other, even higher gain patches, then the higher gain ones will go up, the WS ones down. But I don’t think, many PPL will do that.
I am really thinking to convert some planes to WS, I hope all the possible temp issues will be sorted out soon…
We are all asking the same question, because it makes more sense to connect them on top. Maybe they didn’t think it through when rushing these goggles to the market.
Is there an Update on how to fit prescription lenses in it? I would even be happy if there was a model to 3d print that can fit the new goggles x.
Hello, what antenna is rx and tx ?
Have you tested the maximum video transmission distance?
Avatar X goggles now show IPD range up to 72. Initially they advertised 74mm. For guys with big noggins this is a big deal. HDO2.1 will go up to 74mm!
In my experience, the IPD range that goggles manufacturers advertise doesn’t usually match what they actually are.
If Fatshark used the same HDO2 design in the 2.1, then IPD range is even worse than the Goggles X. The HDO2 only measures 59-69mm. https://oscarliang.com/fatshark-hdo2-fpv-goggles/#Closer-Look-at-the-HDO2
Hi Oscar! I’ve got an issue coming from av input: analog is too bright even with low light condition. Can it be solved in the future, maybe with a dedicated adapter?
Same Issue here! Im trying to upgrade the firmware to see if this has been solved, but I cant figure out where to get the firmware!
Right now there’s no new official firmware for the goggles yet. There’s a beta firmware I believe but some people are having issues with it and it’s considered highly risky. The latest official firmware is released under the “firmware” section here: https://caddxfpv.com/pages/download
For how to flash firmware, check out instructions here: https://oscarliang.com/setup-avatar-fpv-system/#How-to-Update-Firmware-on-GogglesVRX
I want to ask something about walksnail. As we know, DJI Vista will be signal interferenced if it flies close to O3, especially with lots of DJI Mavics at the event. will this happen also with walksnail?
If you’re viewing analog input, does it output that on the HDMI Out?
What HDMI cable fits?
This could my next goggles to replace my walksnail VRX. I look forward for an analog adapter that I could place my Rapidfire. The it will be perfect for me
But can you wear eyeglasses with them?
Unfortunately no, but that’s why they have adjustable focus, as well as supposedly swappable lenses.
Hi Oscar… In the Battery voltage alarm table, for the 2S you wrote :
‘At 10.4V: The low voltage alarm for 2S is triggered.’
I think this is a typo error… what would be the real value…?
Thanks, yea that line was duplicated for some reason I’ve deleted it.
in the manual is writen, that the av port is a 5 pole connector! the dji analog adapter is 4 pole
Yes that’s correct.
but it works without any problems on a 4pole? I just want to be 100% sure
I tested the cable that comes with the BDI Digidapter (for the DJI Goggles V1/V2) and it worked fine.
Haven’t seen anyone touch on this yet, but does it make sense to pick these up if I have the HDZero goggles + Walksnail VRX? Or is it just preference from a weight standpoint. Are there any added benefits here or stick with the VRX?
actually this is my concern as well. I currently have the HDZero goggles + Walksnail VRX but it is very heavy on the face.
Is the power consumption reduced when the screens are turned off due to the proximity sensor? There would be no need to power the receiver, and even the CPU could be put into sleep mode in this case. But it sounds like the intended use is just to extend the life of the screens, not extend battery life.
Do the screens turn off when the proximity sensor detects that they are not being worn but there is still a signal? I don’t think I’d want the screens to go to sleep if there was a signal. But if there’s no signal and the goggles aren’t on my face then it would make sense.
I currently turn off my DJI V1 goggles as soon as I crash/land.Having a sleep mode that would extend battery life would offset the boot up delay because the goggles could be left on for longer.
Maybe what I really want is a soft power button that would put the goggles to sleep without powering down so that I could start them back up quickly when I’m ready to fly again.