Finally I finished building the ZMR250 V2! It’s kind of a rebuild as I simply migrated most of my components from my old ZMR mini quad. However I am using some new FPVModel 2206 motors and DYS SN20A ESCs with this new frame. :-)
Check out my review on the ZMR250 V2 mini quad frame from FPVModel.
Parts used for this build, bold part means new components:
- ZMR250 V2 Frame with Full PDB
- Naze32 Acro with Cleanflight 1.9
- DYS SN20A ESC with BLHeli 14.0
- FPVModel 2206 2000KV motors (Review)
- Sony SuperHAD 600TVL FPV Camera
- MinimOSD with MWOSD firmware
- ImmersionRC 5.8Ghz VTX
- Frsky D4R-II RX
- Gemfan 5045 ABS propellers
- Turnigy 4S 65C 1800mah LiPo
- Thug Arms 3mm (Review)
- BG Buzzer
- PID Controller 1
- Looptime 1200
- Roll P 4.0 – I 0.036 – D 30
- Pitch P 4.6 – I 0.036 – D 36
- Yaw P 10 – I 0.065 – D 1
PDB Connection Diagrams
I spent a very long time checking where all the circuits go on the PDB, because there is no official documentation. This is how the solder pads are connected.
Many people asked me to draw some connection diagrams for components such as motor, ESC, OSD, FC, RX etc. So here it is. With the full PDB we have three options:
- without any OSD
- with a simple OSD that measure battery voltage only
- with a MinimOSD
If you spot any error or mistake please let me know asap, I drew these diagrams at 1am with my eyes closed :)
Simple Voltage OSD
FC Power Options
It’s very flexible how you power your flight controller, depends on your setup, and wiring. Here are 3 options I can think of.
I am using option 2 in my quadcopter build.
Optional Voltage Regulator or Power filter
I use 4S lipo, and need 12V for FPV gear. If you decide to run a voltage regulator for 12V like I do, here is how you should connect it on the PDB.
For 3S, you can also just hook up a power filter there, to clean up your power source for your FPV equipment.
Mini Quad Build Detail
Once you figure out how you are going to connect your parts, the rest should be straight forward.
FPV Camera – Liquid electrical tape dip
Going to protect the camera better with liquid tape, and use my favourite way for a good angle tilt.
MinimOSD – Install the correct header pins
Most MinimOSD come with horizontal pins that are already soldered. But what we really need is vertical pins. So I needed to unsolder the original header pins, which wasn’t very hard to do.
Also make sure you have joined the jumper bridges on the Minim OSD, so that it can be powered by the 5V input. (you can power with 12V, but there is concern on overheating issue)
LC Filter and Voltage Regulator
I picked both power filter and voltage regulator up on eBay, costed me less than $5 total. I soldered jumper pins on the PDB to make it “plug and play”, easy for swaping around or replacement. I reviewed the voltage regulator before.
For the LC power filter you can also make it yourself.
Soldering on PDB
Most people would solder wires directly on the PDB, but I prefer a few header pins wherever possible. They are just more flexible in some cases.
When soldering the MinimOSD, I recommend using the longer end facing upward like this, so you can still program/configure it later on with jumper wires/servo leads. Don’t forget soldering a pin for GRN/DTR as well as you will need it to connect to the FDTI programmer.
Soldering Flight Controller Connection Wires
All these wires will be connected to the FC. Note that I soldered a single header pin on the 5V ground output. It will be handy to have, such as for ESC programming and firmware updates. You can also use any other ground pins available on the PDB.
Installing Arms, ESCs and Motors
I am actually going to try the 3mm Thug Arms in this build, and not using the original 4mm arms. I have them laying around and they are a lot wider to protect the 2206 motors. I think the original arms are designed for 1806 motors, but I am sure they do just fine too.
Trying to keep it as tidy as I can. I am keeping the motor/ESC wires as I might move the setup to another frame in the future. Cutting them to a suitable length would make it cleaner and lighter.
Top Plate – where the VTX and RX goes
Update ESC firmware to BLHeli 14.0
With one wire interface, it is really easy to do!
And the Mini Quad build is done!
Total weight without battery is around 550g, and side by side with my EVO250 Mini quad.